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TEN BASIC STEPS TO SUCCESSFUL STAINLESS STEEL PARTS RESTORATION
By George Iverson
(Reprint from OLDS CARS WEEKLY NEWS AND MARKETPLACE, Vol. 25, No.32, August 8, 1996)
Before I go into the explanation of my 10-step stainless steel restoration process, it is important to discuss the equipment necessary for this work, and some safety precautions.
Equipment: I use two heavy-duty buffing machines. One is a 3/4 hp., 1,800-rpm machine that is used for aluminum, brass, and copper. The other is a 1-1/2 hp., 3,600-rpm machine used for stainless steel trim. Both machines are built by Baldor. I have used less expensive machines, but they just do not hold up. It is better to invest in one good piece of equipment, than in several lesser-quality machines.
Safety: Always wear eye protection, a good dust mask, heavy-duty welders gloves, and a long sleeve shirt. Never put your fingers into holes in the trim or wrap them around an inside curve. Always remember that the piece you are working on could be snatched out of your hands at any moment and if your fingers are some place they should not be, you will not have them any more!
Many old polishers no longer have a full compliment of fingers. I have had the fingers of one of my gloves torn off. That happened when a trim piece I was working on got caught in the wheel, came around, and hit me just above the eye (good for a trip to the hospital, and seven stitches). As the piece dropped, the wheel picked it up again, and let it loose just above my knee, causing a contusion. If it had not been thrown against the wall on the third time around, this trim piece would have beaten me to death! Remember, if you're having a hard time concentrating, do not polish automotive trim until you are able to concentrate fully on the job!
With this said, here are the 10 basic steps to successful stainless steel restoration:
1. REMOVE ALL DENTS, PITS, SCRATCHES AND RECONTOUR IF NECESSARY. In dent removal, some people use a leather bag with sand or a piece of leather wrapped wood to absorb the impact of the hammer or pick that is used to "peen" or pound out the dents. I prefer to use a leather wrapped piece of wood. I've also found that a large chunk of Silly Putty absorbs the impact of the hammer and, because it is somewhat sticky , also serves to hold the stainless or aluminum trim in place.
Once the dents are pounded out, the typical process is to file off the high spots or peaks. It is my opinion that filing is much too harsh on automotive trim, so I prefer to sand off the peaks or high spots. I use several techniques, depending upon the piece. I might use an air-driven mini-
belt sander, a Dremel combination one inch belt and five inch disk sander, a dual-action sander or a block or wood wrapped with sandpaper.
2. SAND WITH 280-GRIT SANDPAPER. I use air- driven, dual-action, variable-speed sander with 3M's gold stick-it paper. This paper is expensive, but gives me the best results. Sometimes, I use transmission fluid as a lubricant. It is messy, but it stretches out the life of the sandpaper.
The 280-grit paper usually removes peaks caused by dent removal, light scratches and most pits. The real key is not to get the piece too hot. Heat causes thin and flat pieces (like rocker moldings to warp). Keep the sander moving. If the stainless begins to take on a darker color -or if you are throwing a lot of sparks -the piece is getting too hot. A rule of thumb is if the sandpaper catches on fire, your piece is getting too hot.
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