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If you want to keep your T-Bird authentic and have maximum brake power, your brake lining should be attached to the shoes with rivets as original. Bonded lining is applied with a high rate of heat which makes the lining too hard to absorb the dust created by normal braking. The results--scored drums.
The holes above the rivet heads provide a safe haven for the dust. When you fail to replace the lining before it wears down to the rivet heads and the drums are scored, don't blame it on the rivet heads; the rivets are brass. Blame it on yourself for not periodically pulling the wheels and removing the dust from the rivet holes and drums with a vacuum cleaner.
Bonded shoes are more apt to squeak than riveted. A veteran Ford mechanic would only use bonded lining on your little 'Bird as a last resort. It is a mistake to not have the new brake shoes cam ground if the drums have been turned. Cam grinding is a process that gives the brake lining full contact with the now larger inside diameter of the drum. If the lining isn't cam ground, it will not make full contact with the inside of the drum and the result is less stopping power.
Another subject I would like to address--All metal brake lines should be replaced and all three flexible lines should be replaced if they are original or haven't recently been replaced. If the lines are not replaced, you are going to contaminate your clean wheel cylinders and master cylinder. Failure of an old flexible line could result in disaster.
Keep in mind your original steel lines are 38 years old (at the time of this writing) and you can expect the same life expectancy with new lines as original. Your best source of supply for your brake shoes is the shop who will turn your drums, reline your shoes, and fit the brake lining to the drum.
While the shoes are off, you can check those little flat spots on the inside of the brake carrier plates (backing plates) for grooves. If there are grooves in these little spots which are called ramps, then you must remove the backing plates and fill up the grooves with steel welding rod, not bronze. Go easy with the welding rod, as the excess will have to be ground down flat to the original ramp height or you have failed your task. Don't forget to put a tiny daub of lubricant on these nice, like-new ramps before you install the new brake shoes. If you do have to remove the carrier plates, now is the time to change the inner axle housing seal #1177. It is time for them to be replaced not only to prevent grease from getting on your new brakes, but most importantly to keep the lubrication on the ring and pinion gear.
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