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| Here you can see the Saturn sitting on
the coin box. From the front, I can reach the power,
reset, and eject buttons on the Saturn. Right under the
power cable on the back, is the video out. I have the R,
G, B, Sync, Gnd, R spkr, and L spkr running to a 1/2
piece of Ethernet cable. I interfaced to the custom DIN
connector on the back by crimping (male) pins that I got
at Fry's. A pack of 25 (Gold) for about $1.50. |
Here is the Saturn pad connected to an
IDE ribbon cable cut in 1/2. I drilled tiny holes from
the back through to the front and pushed the wires
through the back to the front. The ribbon cable plugs
into a gender changer that allows you to connect IDE
cables end to end. The other cable runs to the joystick.
The big red wire runs from the start button to the coin
slot. So to start the game, trigger the coin mech. |
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| The grey wire on the right goes to the
Saturn as shown above. The RJ-45 end goes to a RJ-45 jack
shown in the middle left. The colored wires go to the
monitor above. Thre are actually 2 sets of wires. The
others go to my VGA cable that is laying on the bottom. I
use that for my PC to display games on the monitor. I
have to unplug the Saturn when I do that otherwise the
crt will freak out. When I add Playstation and Genesis
support. I just have to unplug the RJ-45 cable and plug
the other system's cable in to the jack. But more on that
later. I need a special chip to get a Sync signal from
the Playstation and no one seems to sell it locally.
Without it, the screen is all red shaded and bent
looking. |
Here is the back of the coin door. The
red wire mentioned above runs to the switch on the coin
mechanism as seen here. If you look carefully, right at
the bottom middle, there is the switch (housed in carmel
colored plastic). There is a plastic tab sticking out
that you can press to insert a coin. Or you can actually
insert a coin. You can also see a white coil on each
side. It is an electro magnet that has 2 functions. One
is to pull slugs (fake coins made of steel) away from the
switch so they go to the reject chute, and the other is
to pull the mechanism back so it will work. This is so if
someone drops a coin in when the cabinet isn't on, it
will fall out the reject chute. |
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| Here is the back of the monitor. Not much
showed up because of bad lighting. I had a table lamp on
the floor for the bottom 1/2 of the insides. The flyback
coil is the white part in the bottom middle. There are 2
adjustments. The top is Focus and the bottom is Screen
(brightness). I had to crank up the brightness some,
because the Saturn and PC don't put out as much as the
actual game did, resulting in a dim picture. There are
other adjustments going along the base of the circuit
board. There are stickers labelling them, but you can't
read them in this picture. The small piece of cardboard
covers the neck board. That is a part you don't want to
touch. But there are more adjustments there, Red cut off,
Green cut off, Red drive, Green drive, Blue drive. I had
to adjust those as well to make up for the extra
brightness washing out the colors. |
This is the original Joust power supply.
The original Joust most likely got power from the pins on
the top. You can still see the (W) Williams logo on the
sticker on top of the grey capacitor. Right now, the only
thing this power supply is doing, is supplying voltage to
the coin door. It lights the reject button and powers the
electro magnet in the coin mechanism. There is a large
transformer on the bottom of the cabinet that gives power
to this power supply, in addition to being the isolation
transformer for the monitor. The Shinobi board got its
power from the newer switching power supply mounted to
the coin box. They allow between 120 and 240 volts to
operate the power supply. They also have an adjustment
screw to calibrate the power supply. Many people replace
a bad switching P/S with a computer P/S. They put out the
same voltages and both have switching. |
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| Here you can see one of the speakers.
They are from a Packard Bell computer. They normally
mount to a Packard Bell, U.S. Logic, or Pixie monitor.
They fit nicely into the spaces beside the arcade
monitor. The volume is pretty good and they have a pretty
decent high range. When the cabinet is moved from the
garage into my room, I will remove these and use my
stereo for the sound. All the Saturn games sound much
better on a home stereo. Mainly because the Saturn
typically stores the game music on audio tracks on the
game cd. |
Here is a better inside picture. You can
see the Joust power supply. The Saturn is at the top. The
switching power supply has the red wires running to it.
Also there is a giant heat sink under the Joust power
supply. |
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| Here is a close up of the button layout. |
Here you can see how I figured out how to
space the buttons. The lines on the left side are what
you should use. The ones on the right aren't right. |
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| Just a different picture of the buttons. |
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