I will be using up the Code 80 track & pointwork I have on my Stoneybridge West layout. I am now also modelling in 2mm finescale (9.24mm track gauge) which uses code 40 rail, the track is built by hand with the aid of templates and roller gauges, or in my case with the aid of a digital vernier.

Joining code 55 to Code 80 can be done easily when no electrical connection is required across the join. By packing the Code 55 track up to the level of the Code 80 (using plasticard packing Under the Code 55 track sleepers) you can avoid having to file the Code 80 track down at the ends to lower it to the level of the Code 55 track. If an electrical connection across the join is required in a Scenic section I use a seperate power feed to each individual section of track, Where the join is not in a visible scenic section (The fiddle yard and hidden sidings) I would simply solder a fine piece of wire to the outside of the rails across the track gap.

Painting trackwork can seem a daunting task when first attemting to make realistic model railways (As Opposed to a shiny `trainset') but it is well worth the effort making the track `fit in' better with scenic surroundings and greatly improving the overall look of your layout.

I have used fine crushed granite ballast for all of the trackwork on Stoneybridge and Stoneybridge West as I have a few kilos of it to use up. Using a `HARD' ballast is quite easy with code 55 track as long as care is taken not to clog up pointwork and the inner railchairs are kept clear as even a few stray grains can stop a point blade from closing properly or lift the trains wheels off the track losing electrical contact or worse, it can cause a derailment which can damage fine detailing on locos and stock. (I found that N gauge fine ballast looked really good on my OO Helensburgh Branch) I will be trying out a `soft' ballast for future tracklaying projects as I have now seen several layouts using it with good results. I would reccommend using a soft ballast with code 55 trackwork as there is so little clearance that one single grain of hard ballast can easily cause trouble. Taking precautions like brushing the track and using a hoover to collect the bits are always a good idea when hard ballast is used. Trains being propelled are more likely to be derailed by stray ballast, gaps or mismatched rails than hauled trains, this can be avoided by carefull laying of the ballast. It is tempting to get large areas ballasted in a hurry but I have found that a rushed job usually takes longer to clean up when dry and often needs reworking sooner rather than later. A little care & a little more time spent getting the ballasting right saves time later.

When ballasting sidings, branch lines or some modern day mainlines the addition of a few plants and small bushes to the edges of ballast helps to blend the track into its surroundings. A nice overgrown effect can be produced by adding a light sprinking of scenic scatter material when the ballast is still wet. I use a mixture of shades of green scatter over the ballasted track while it is still wet, I blow gently down a piece of tube to carefully move the greenery around on the ballast helping to spread it into the gaps between ballast and into the glue. A pinch of ballast sprinkled on top will enhance the effect that the plants are growing from between the stones not on top of them, this is most noticeable on larger scales but does make a visible difference in 2mm scale, You do have to look pretty close though.