Winchester
94's And Sight's And Scope Mountings.........................
IRONSIGHTS
AND EYES
There
is a number of ways to sight a 94 up,thru a scope and mount,a peep sight
or a buckhorn or laddered ramp sight.one of my early ones had the ramped
stand up ladder that i liked but havent seen any of them on the market
at all,if so the collectors from parts houses want a high price but thats
the one i prefer most of all.the buckhorn which most of us are familiar
with these days is fine by me as well.with this sight use the steps to
raise it up to the desired range to sight in with,0once thats done then
loosen the two screws holding the blade to fine tune it to your point of
impact hit on paper and your allset.windage is easy,just tap it either
side of the dovetail base for moving the p.o.a impact. i use a brass drift
pin and a few taps of a small hammer or a screwdiver handle at the range
and that works fine for me.some folks dont like the wide notch in the rear
sight so they take the sight and fill the notch with silver solder and
renotch it smaller for more of a pinpoint aim with less windage error than
the wider usual notch,then a fast swipe of flat black to make it uniform
looking after a few swipes of a file to clean it it up and smooth it out.
PEEPSIGHTS
peepsights,ghostrings,its
all the same.if your winchester is post 64 and you have the small 6-48
screws on the left side you can mount a nice peepsight.some swear by them
being more accurate than irons and theyre fully adjustable for elevation
hieght,windage adjustment and can have a number of small aperture inserts
for the peep hole.Williams makes the best of them as i see it.i did have
one 94 at one time with one but i didnt care much for it at the time altho
beit accurate.
SCOPES
,MOUNTS AND TOP EJECTING WINCHESTERS
Here
is where we have a slight problem with some of our older winchesters,on
a post 1964 winchester youll have the screws on the left side for mounting
one.if not you have a pre 64 winchester and a problem.on the pre 64's it'll
have to be drilled and tapped for the side mount.on the post 64's just
take the old screws out ,put the plate on and then the new screws to attach
it.theyre many many sidemounts available these days now to be had.tall
ones,short ones,standard ones,forward ones.pick the right one for your
scope.if its a 1 inch tube and at least a 38mm bell on each end of a variable
scope get the tall forward mount.
if
its a standard scope 1 inch tube and fixed power with a small bell on the
end and straight tube use the standard low mount.now the fun begins.looks
funny being off set to the bore? changes cheek holding position a bit?
get used to it.
with
some scopes you may have to tilt the scope to the left so the elevation
knob is now the windage and the windage knob is now the elevation! surprisingly
the scope when collimated and sighted in will not move the bullet to one
side as many old cranky purists have so often bs'd people for years.if
you sight in at 150 yards dead on it will at 200 yards be dead on and low
depending on loads in that particular rifle.the bolt action guys get veryyyyyy
tikked off when at 100 yards your shooting the same groups if not smaller
with your 94 winchester.were talking 1to 1\2 inch or less usually as well
which out of a 20 inch barrel is something to be proud of with it.theyre
was a few i knew out west who would use 4-12,6-18,6-24 and even one with
a unertl 6x32 scope mounted shooting at ranges about 300 yards or more
in the desert an hitting what they shot too once theyre rifle was sighted
in at that range! the dyed in the red checked wool purists will scorn and
scoff and then razzle you to oblivion and when they see the groups you
hold they usually shut up hush and walk away mumbling especially if your
using light bullets and boat tails!!!
The
Tips And Trix Just Aint For Kids!!! :sighting tips and bullet Loads For
Long Range Shooting,Purists!Hah! Who says the 30-30 is just a Brush Gun,Shows
What They Dont Know!
here's
a tip i tell no one but now its time to pass it on : when you sight in
say at 100 yards dead on take a felt tip and dot that screw notch on the
rim as a mark for 100 yards.now move the target stand to 150 yards,punch
the paper as is.see where the impact hits.now when you raise the elevation
count the clicks,when its zeroed at 150 yards mark another notch next to
the screw slot with your felt tip pen,write these clicks down too and then
on a piece of tape put it on the scope bell!! say at 100 your zeroed,you
see a buck at 155 yards! now raise the elevation up the 7 or 8 (for instance)
clicks and wham dead on hit! keep doing this out as far as you can so you
will now know how many clicks to go for each range desired to shoot,we
only have a 200 yard range at my club so thats my limit usually for me
but when im out in the fields and i can set up for 300 i will take it and
mark the rim off the screw slot notch so ill know i will be dead on at
that specific range.if i have to drop distance from 200 yards i drop the
elevation counting my clicks to 100 yards and lining the dot and the mark
with the screw slot notch to be an extra sure i'm right on it failsafe.also
lighter bullets at long ranges tend to still drop a deer just as well with
no bullet breakup on impact of deer as well up to 150 grain bullets,the
spire point ballistic bullets work extremely well in a lever action BUT
NEVER LOAD THE MAGAZINE WITH MORE THAN ONE!!!!!!!! you will have a big
surprize on your hands if any hand left when that spire point hits the
primer in front and sets off a chain reaction blowing the mag filled with
them up !!!!!!!!! round nose bullets work well too expanding nicely at
long ranges too.if your using the ballistic tipped boatailed spire points
use one in the magazine and one in the chamber with the hammer on safety
on halfcock position.i doubt you will have to hit the animal again if shot
placement is correct to begin with! also when working a load up for accuracy
use a scale to the grain period,the dippers are good but they usually toss
you a load that 10% or so under the scaled wieght that they actually say
they are and pretty much good for plinking,not for tack driving.use a scale
for those loads,start low and work up till the groups shrink ,lets say
start with 31.5 grains of hogdons h4895 and a 150 gr roundnose bullet in
a remington case.this is my plink load,but in my 94 she thrives and loves
34 .4 grains for a tight group !,never go above the recommended maximum
load with the powder when working up a load!!!!!! plinking is a fun time
for sure but also think about LEAD loads with a gas check too! here is
some food for thought! use a lyman 311440 bullet.which mey be now
listed as 308440 150 grain flat face round ,10 grains of h335 gives
1000-1100 fps is extremely effective ,also 2400 fps with 35
grains of H335 from a 20 inch pipe,this 150 grain cast bullet is extremely
accurate.the hornady half jacket soft nose 100 grain plinker bullet over
39 grains of A2015 gives close to 3000 fps,still in 20 inch rifles.Hornady’s
number for this bullet is 3005. With a 3 inch high at 100 yards it is dead
on at 300 yards and down 20 inches at 400 yards its a coyote terminator!!!!!.and
this is a 30-30! at 1 ½ inch high at 100 yards it is down a measured
11 inches at 300 yards. Hornady also has two good bullets, #3010 a 110
grain jacketed spire point with 35.5 grains of H4198 pushes it real close
to 2900 fps near 38,000 psi. Hornady's smaller 130 grain #3020 with 39.5
H335 pushes close to 2800 fps,its usually 1½ inch high at 100 yards
, close to on at 200 and down 9-10 inches at 300 yards.
Still
think your old 30-30 is a brunch time brush gun???? the thought and proof
of showing off the purists the scoped or not 30-30 is alive and kicking
is too much to resist,doing more to dispell theyre egotesticalist it aint
a rifle its a bushwhakkin thicket gun attitude! i live for this!!!!!!!!!
