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How to test your headspace correctly and cure a headspace problem without a lathe...
ok when one gets a rifle especially a gi one, you should ask the shop
owner to test the rifle on the spot with a no-go gauge.it takes about
1 minutes time to save you many headaches of having the barrel pulled and
set back correct etc etc.gauges can be bought for under 20$ in most cases
thru brownells or a gunsmithing supplies outfit,remove the
extractor from the bolt and then the magazine and floor plate from
the rifle first.now set the gauge in the bolt face muzzle straight up and
insert the bolt.this way you get the correct reading,some gauges
have a cutout for this so ya dont have to take the extractor off.using
thumb and finger gently attempt to close the bolt.when you feel resistance
stop cold.if you feel resistance on the no go gauge before its fully
closed you are OK.take the gauge out gently, never load from the
magazine or get rough with it,this is your best freind now in helping you
determine safety factor #1.also make sure the chamber is very clean
and void of oil before you start the process. there are 3 gauges with which
to test for head space. first gauge is a "go" gauge, which is usually used
during a rebarrel process to make sure there is enough chamber space to
close the bolt on a chambered round. You dont need it unless you do alot
of rebarreling. A bolt should close all the way on a "go" gage.the second
one is a "no-go", which is the standard gage.you really need in most cases.
A bolt should not close all the way on a "no-go" gage no matter what.Even
if it only stops at the very bottom of the bolt throw,it means your
all set to go shoot.. third is a "field" gauge, which mainly is used on
military rifles to identify pieces that are past "no-go" specs but
still ok to shoot if in battlefield situation. A bolt should not close
on a "field" gage.if it stops
even at the bottom of the throw,you can shoot it but beware of it carefully.IF
your rifle closes on a no go what you can do to save a hefty chunk of change
is order up a few stripped bolts and then do the no-go test with them,
all bolts vary in size ever so slightly and this is a cheaper alternative
to curing the headspace problem,with the enfields in 303 they had removeable
bolt heads that could be replaced to solve the headspace problem rated
from 1 to 3 in sizes.too bad the springfields werent built that way too.but
as i have said changing the 8$ bolt housing is cheaper than a costly lathe
and set back job.you may be lukky and hit it on the first try with a new
bolt or may go thru 3-5 untill you find one that falls in limits but the
good thing is you very well can sell them or send the ones you dont use
back.