CZ52 TIPS AND ACCURACY FILES

Ok ,so you've just bought A CZ52 and taken too the range,Your finally getting over the fact its A hand cannon at the least between a .357 and a .44 mag somewhere's and groups are shrinking finally after many many rounds and getting used too,Now one say's to one self: self? How can i improve this piece to group better? Well here are some tips I have come up with and A list too run thru for you all to enjoy and use .

OK now for some questions to ask yourself...........
A : Are my locking rollers worn?
B : Do I have too much gap between barrel and slide at the muzzle?
C : How do I check my muzzle crown for wear and sharp rifling?

Ok now for the answers to A,B,C....
A: check the roundness of the rollers and make sure that they are not out of round or worn,replace if neccesary with only new or mil spec hardened rollers.the korean ones are said to be soft so make sure to ask or order a new hardened set from Karl at makarov,com.
B: check the gap between the barrel and slide at the muzzle,theyre should not be more than .006 to .009 of a gap here.any more than that
and i would say accuracy will be hurting bad and suggest a slide replacement.
C: Check the muzzle crowning ,this can be done by simply looking at it.
You should see an even bevel around the rifling lands and sharp cut on the lands and grooves if not,re crown it.This can be simply done with a ball bearing and some valve grinding compound and here is how to do it: Take the barrel out and wrap it in leather,now put it in A vise muzzle up ,now take a few patches and stuff them in the bore to keep the excess compound from going any further.Now for the ball bearing,I use one from A mouse with the rubber sheath cut off of it.The size is close to the 11 degree taper I want which is optimum for the crowns bevel.
The best way to do this is by hand and at the most it will take 10-20 Minutes unless the crown is really shot bad and you have to cut a bit Further,Take the ball and coat it in valve grinding compound and oil,Now Put the ball on the muzzle and start turning it by hand in all directions to Get a nice even cut.Brownells.com has A nice crowning tool but is drill powered.I do not advocate using that in A hand drill but in a lathe with The barrel and tool centered correctly,if not you can end up with A crown offset which is useless to you,by hand you will get A nice even crown with the method I described.when the grinding sound stops ,wipe the muzzle and look at it.Add more compound and continue if neccesary untill The crown is A nice even bevel and the lands and grooves look sharp.Now take the patch out of the barrel and clean it well getting all the compound out and hit the range ,You should see a noticeable improvement on your groups as compared to before it was recrowned.

A few more tips .........................................................

After trying alot of the slip on rubber grips i found i didnt like the fact
that most had a palm swell or finger grooves that were too small or just plain too damned thick feeling in the hand ,What I did was to take a section of mountain bike inner tube flip it inside out and cut it to size,
Then i oiled it and slipped it over the grip on my CZ52.its thin,it has'ent split apart yet on me and it feels good with no added bulk on the pistol grip.i now have the best hold on it i've had in a while.I also did this to a few other pistols as well.cost total? 2 bucks.
Common mistakes while shooting..........
what i see alot when poeple are shooting is flinchitis or fingerpadosis
yep,when they shoot and the rounds re hitting way left or way right its always the guns fault,nope aint buying it man.i had shown one person the old put the pad on the finger to the other side a bit trick and bang,all shots in the black.he had been using the part of the finger pad on the trigger closer to the knuckle than need be eliminating fingerpadosis completely.Now flinchitis is alot harder to control,What i see here when someone is shooting low is theyre eyes close and the pistol dips down for a split second before the shot is taken,What i do is take theyre magazine and load every other round with a dummy so that they see a klik no boom and watch the gun drop with theyre own eyes,this cures them subconciosly from anticipated kick and recoil helping them to get over it faster and keeping both eyes open.also i make them wear inner ear plugs and over ear protected muffs so the blast is now a pop reducing the flinchitis even more.i also find a better stance to use is a modified weaver/chapman to get back on target and a better hold on recoil than the usual isosocles stance i see most use while arching theyre back to the rear making for a more of a bad shot.

SIGHTS ON THE CZ52.....................
what i have found is that no matter what sights used make the best of what you have and learn how high over it shoots at different ranges of distance.A good set of novak or weaver sights is nice for target shooting i find but so isnt a set of standard iron sights too!
i  tend to prefer the standard issue sights for carry use on my own cz52
which i have blackened and rounded the rear sight so it does'nt dig on and gives me unobstructed view.i find that with target sights im adjusting more than shooting on them.i have set my windage once with two taps of a brass drift and small mallet and that was it.with some target adjustable sights they have a habit of working loose unless theyre well built.anyhow practice ,practice, practice is all i can say on this matter on sights no matter what you use.

more on grips for the CZ52
as far as grips go theyre is a number of wood grips now being made for these fine pistols,me i prefer the old original ones,on mine i epoxy painted them black but some one else has used black shoe polish rubbing it in and polishing it out and that worked as well to change the color from brownish red to black with little effort and when done it doesnt stain the clothing either.see above for the grip sleeve tip i came up with also................

feeding time......
what i did to improve feeding was to polish out the ramp on the upper mag well with 600 grit emery cloth taking out the rought stuff and then a fast buff with some jewelers rouge on a dramel tool with a cotton buff wheel.see attached pic below...

bluing and parkerizing............
when you have to do blue it ,remember this: you can blue over a parkerized finish for a matte blue look,BUT you cant parkerize over bluing.so when parkerizing in a pot on the stove remember all surfaces must be stripped of the bluing completely so that the parkerizing will take effect on the steel,brownells.com has the fluids neccesary to do this job at home correctly if you take your time and do the job right.for those with parkerized and scratched or worn spots this is good to do or just simply reblue the parkerized surface completely if a blued matte pistol is your choice.i polished my slide out befor bluing but i left my frame matte just cause i was lazy and tired after emery sanding half the night.someday though ill finish it off....

another sight tip is to cut a dovetail in the the top of the blade front sight and insert a piece of hi vis green or red plastic ,then trim it down and just tap it to the side ,add a bit of superglue to keep it solid in place and presto! instant hi vis front site.

firing pin hints
check the length of your pin by taking the slide off,then the barrel out.now take a straight edge and lay it on the breech face and if the pin is protruding thru the hole and hitting the straightedge it needs to be slightly trimmed back.this is to prevent slamfires and or a full auto mishap in some cases.