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First off :
is make sure pistol is cleaned regularly every
500-1000 rounds so it functions ok,
if its a used bought pistol,clean it and see
whats what ,then test it at the range to see how it functions and shoots.usually
aa good cleaning will bring the bore back into tight groups and the reciever
will function fine.my self i take things a bit more than that. i clean
well after every shooting session period altho some will say a piece will
tighten a shot string after 100 rounds or so have been fired.me i dont
buy into that much.i prefer a clean bore each and every time and the 50
feet 3/8ths" groups i shoot with iron sights are good enough for me.
Feeding problem's :
its usually one of 3 things,bent mag lips or
too much lead/bullet lube build up or a roughed surface on the feed ramp
into the bore.in either event make sure the ramps clean with a few swipes
of a patch.i usually polish mine out with a dremel and bullet shaped felt
pad and fine red jewelers rouge.if one doesnt have these the same effect
on the ramp can be done carefully with barrel off and a small dowel with
a strip of 600 wet or dry emery paper and a drop of oil , never change
the angle of the ramp and never go heavy handed in polishing it to do so
will trash your pistol by changing angles or buffing a rut in it!.this
will eliminate any drag on the bullet going in,thereby giving it an absolutly
smooth surface to ride up on.mag lips can be gently spread or tightened
so that the round works ok in it when feeding.however i did have one new
out of the package spare mag that would get very stiff and stop the follower
from going down or up all the way about the 6 or 7th round. a carefull
spreading in the slot fixed that with two taped up needlenose pliers.my
guess was case was crushed or something during shipping.after polishing
my ramp out mine feeds any ammo reliably with no jams.
Polishing Parts 101 :
yes it is possible to polish the parts out on
your browning internally for a smoother feel and function.so far tho i
am still in the process of doing this for my own testing purposes.if the
slide rails,recoil post,frame rails are polished out it will feel alot
smoother and be easier to clean as the milled surfaces will have no real
way to trap grit and grime and be easier to wipe off with some solvent,asides
from that i think also the charging time is speeded up a bit as well due
to the slickness of it being polished out to 600-800 grit.the hammer face
and sides and all trigger parts except the sear notch can be done too,this
includes pins as well.
some may even jewel the parts if they choose
to do so carefully in a drill press with a pencil eraser and cutting rouge
the next step down from jewelers fine red rouge.if all is done correctly
we are only talking polishing parts lightly removing no more than 1/1000th
" of metal in the process.remember never go heavy handed when polishing,
it does cut steel and i will not be responsible for anyone doing this in
that manner.if and when all the internals and rails etc are polished out
right and cleaned and lighlty oiled you should see a marked improvement
in feel and possibly speed of the pistol as well. i know i have in my others
and can appreciate the way the feel afterwards as well.if the parts are
rough finish what to do is lay the part on a sheet of 600-800 grit emery
on a dead flat trued surface for an even cut.
a piece of 1/4" plate glass works well too for
that.when the parts been cleaned up then you can polish it further with
the dremel tool and buffing wheel and compound.
Grip's
there are rubber grips,ivory grips,taget grips
adjustable target grips,pearl grips,walnut grips
,ebony grips,smooth grips or checkered grips.me
i hunt with mine so i just stick with the standard issue rubber factory
ones in a semi target mode of style.i kinda like the pearl ones tho
on the market as well and may someday get a set of those or the full boot
adjustable walnut target styles on the market.Hogue,Ajax,Pearce,Pachmyer.all
good grips and all of them online to look thru as well, i prefer the ajax
company myself.good grips good prices good qaulity.use what you feel comfortable
with the most.never get a grip you just dont feel right with in the hand
as you may regret it later someday when shooting it.
Sights
i like the target adjustable sights on the standard
s.e. model i have.i wish they were thinner
for a more precise shot at long ranges but the
wide combat style width is ok by me.the sight shrouds are nice to have
too in the field to cut glare as well,years ago i had gotten a product
that pretty much was soot in a spray can just for sights to blacken and
matte them with out it being a permanent thing,as far as scopes go theyre
is a number of mounts out theyre for them.some will attach a rail in the
base screws for the front and rear sight or replace the whole rear sight
and bar completely leaving the front sight and have a see thru with a rear
still on.scopes and bases are many and remember this is still a 22 worthy
of a good pistol scope.i use a bushnell 4x on my mk1 which may be getting
a new home on the buckmark,havent made up my mind yet on that tho'.also
use some loctite to keep the screws from looseing up if your a dedicated
compitition shooter.if the screws are stuck you can apply a little heat
on them with a soldering iron to break the loctites hold and remove them.
never over torque the screws that hold the rear
base in for takedown.this will and can cause you much grief in more ways
than one.those who do so risk a broken recoil post or worse.
