On some abu reels we always get a glitch that can be fixed now and then
More Fix Tips  Will Be Added As Time Goes On......
1st prob the line slips between spool and sideplate.
cure: in the bearing caps on either side is 2 copper shims for braking control pressure on the shaft on the spool, sometimes they move outwards moving the spool to either side , what i did was take them and put them on a flat surface and press them flat and reinstall them only in reverse so the unused side is now the new contact for the spoolshaft ends, sometimetimes u can take a scissors and make a square shim from a soda can and insert this under the old shim to center the spool eliminating the gap the line gets into.sometimes taking a  shim from one side and installing it on the other will be enough to fix the problem
2nd fix : On bearings what i do is when my casts are shorter i know the bearings need oil on most all abus they use abec 3 bearings in theyre , i take them out and flush all the old stuff out by putting the bearing on the end of a small paintbrush and spray them down with wd 40 and the red tube they have then i sop out the old oil with a paper towel and spin them again and repeat till they fly free and have no wd 40 left , now this may piss off some one who uses an oil with the name of a spaceship at 14 bucks a tube but i dont care ,at 14$ a tube i can use that some where else and am tired of the same old hype on oils yes some are better than others but when they look and act the same ill take the cheaper that does the same thing i use hydraulic transmission fluid on the bearings it smells the same and has the same viscosity and travels the same distance from my testing with both "spaceship" oil and atf fluid oils and is specifically designed for bearing use and as well is less than 2$ a quart, makes ya wonder dont it? i sure did after i parted 14$ and lots of testing. take the bearing and drown it in the fluid and spin it well to remove any trace of wd 40 solvent in theyre . then re install the bearings on the reel, the reel will also be improved with better casting distance from this , the best oil i had ever used was whale oil from ibm for buisness machines but thats hard as hens teeth to get and if you can i recommend that for bearing oil too you may want to call a watchmaker to get some as well as thats whats used in some fine watches, also the atf fliuid can be had in different grades of viscosity use the lightest you can get never use wd 40 its a solvent meant for cleaning not lubricating bearings its also a water attractant that will draw moisture in the reel , when the oil is turning black to grayish white thats the giveaway  for the next step is it goes brown to rust.also you can replace the old bearings with abec 7 to 10 class bearings which will seem a great improvement getting you 10 -30 yards more casting distance with the right preps and a little practice.make sure when you order the new bearings tho you get the right measurements from the shaft diamater to the thikness and width of old bearings and you should be all set .also on the bearing for the crank shaft handle theyre is sometimes a bushing that is nylon this can be changed to a abec 3 bearing with ease and also improve its handling too as a rule oil those barings when casts are shortening or once a week  out of habit
Tip #3 For Stikky Drags that do everthing but :
what to do is clean the old drag washers well look for signs of glazing where pieces of metal or brass have adhered to the washers , if they are take some fine sandpaper i use 320 emery grit wet or dry and lay it on a flat surface then lightly break the glaze when thats done apply a very light layer of grease down between fingers on the washers and reinstall, here i use a lithium based grease made for wheel bearings on them , its a little bit lighter than the heavy duty wheel bearing grease which is thicker in viscosity.i have a older abu with a leather washer that was revived with a simple cleaning by hitting it with wd 40 then sopping it dry with a paper towel and then a light greasing and now it works fine after 23 years in the same reel.
Tip #4 on  reel with a slipping pawl that just does not want to catch right on time what i do is take the 2 copper tines on the pawl and carefully push them together so that when i reel it rides above the gear teeth and sets when i hook a fish.this may take a bit of time to get just right also a drop of oil on the shaft it rides on is called for ,never over grease the gear under the shaft this will build up on the pawl causing it to stay floating and not slip into the the tooth .this pawl can be modified by cleaning the pawl then soldering  a stop block on top so it doesnt travel so far upwards .theyre by creating a faster catch and hook up, also use a heat sink on it when soldering the stop to save the tines from being hurt by the heat
Tip #5 to get the most out of the spool itself do the shaft some good by buffing the ends out carefully with a buffing bit and some jewelers rouge very carefully so as not to take off material but just break the surface marks by polishing this out , me i use a  dremel motor tool for this , this helps for a smoother freel on the bearings as well when the shaft is riding in them also never go heavy handed here as you can easily wear the shaft more than you want too, also ifyou have noticed the ends of the shafts boring thru the copper brakeplates then buff the end of the shaft carefully mine had a point on it that was never trimmed  one swipe of a needle file and a buff cured that now i have a nice smooth brake
tip #6 on reels that load to one side when reeling in inspect the pawl for wear and clean out all the dirt in the cut shaft for it then lightly oil with a fine oil then reassemble sometimes a pawl can be saved by a little careful filing with a swiss file to remove the burrs or to recut the step so it rides correctly in the grooves.