Step 1: loosen the drag star handle fully first.
Step 2: now take the screw that holds the handle cap nut off, then the cap nut cover
Step 3: now take of the brass nut with a correct size wrench to prevent marring.
Step 4: take off the handle and then take off the star drag handle as well
Step 5: loosen completly the 3 raised chrome screw heads
Step 6: now take the 2 small cap head screws out and lift the plate cover off the plate
Step 7: you should now see the whole assmbly as shown in figure 1 assembly.jpg
Step 8: now to take the gear off with drags just lift it right off the shaft and the washers and set them aside ,note the washers go on the same way they came off here so the drags will work properly, most important  usually its gear then the 2 belleville washers (curved ) placed together curves opposite each other then the bushing or bearing and then a flat washer.
Step 9: what i use to completely clean the assembly plate is a can of carb cleaner,  just hold this over some paper towels or a rag and spray all the old hardened grease and sand,dirt etcetera right off and away you can use an old toothbrush here , it will leave you with a cleaned and dry plate to relube now.i use a good reel oil on the posts for the release mechanisms, and a drop under the pushbutton spool release dont push this in before or during disassembly !
Step 10: now for the drags gently lift up the top washer reaveling the stack of drag washers underneath ,when they are all out take the gear and carb clean it good to get all the grit out and old grease,on the brass washers just wipe them clean ,same with the micarta washers just ;wipe them clean. now take a good heavy reel grease and put some between your fingers and then apply a light film to the washers on both sides and reinstall them.note picture of gear and drag assembly , this is a common mistake here , way too much lube on the shaft and drags, just a light film on drags and then pack the teeth on the gear and wipe off the excess (.see pic of drag.jpg) also when the crankshaft is off use some gear gease on the shaft before reinstalling the crank , this will stop the reel from locking up in midcast when the handle flies forward , too much light oil their is the cause forthat . Step 11: now for the catch pawl this just gets a drop of oil on its shaft it rides on .never over grease the under gear on the drive gear assembly, what happens is it fills up with grease this ,(just use a ight film like the drags)and fails after a while by not going down all the way to stop the gear from turning with a hookset.note the pic of the pawl(pawl.jpg) those 2 copper tines slip on the lower gear enabling it to stop , if your abu makes a tap tap tap sound all the time and does'nt set when you pull the rod tip back , just gently push the tines together so it adds a touch more pressure to the lower stop gear.these 2 tines will pull the pawl down on a hookset when the gear starts going back, too much pressure it wont , too little it bounces off the stop gear with
;each turn and wears out fast . just slip the tines on the stop gear when done and readdy for reassembly
Step 12: now for the bearings in the end caps , just take the caps off and gently push each bearing out and then with them on a paint brush end or wood flush them out with a few short bursts of carb cleaner and spin them dry .it may take a few blasts if they have never been cleaned in a long time , then use a half drop of good reel oil to lube them, dont use a lot as some oils gum up when theyres too much in theyre and that slows the reels spool down. its a good idea to clean the caps too now as well while the bearings are out if theyre dirty too , make sure the 2 flat discs go in the same way as they came out also .now put them back in and put the top hat washer back in the tension side,and then the cap goes back on loosely .
Step 12: now clean the shaft spool ends and also give the level wind a fast dose of carb clean and a drop of oil afterwards and install the spool ,put the right plate cover back on the assmebly and install the 2 small cap head screws ,do this after you have put the gearshaft and washers on correctly and pawl on the plate,make sure the pawl is engaged in the tooth of the stop gear .
Step 13: now put the plate assembly on the reel carefully making sure the locater pin is lined up and the spool is in its pinion tooth ,now tighten down the 3 raised chrome knurled screws put the drag star on then the handle , install the screw in the center
  of the gearshaft or circlip ,then the handle and the cap nut and retainer screw and now your ready to set the tension knob back down lightly to adjust for the lure your about to cast! ;you will fing the reel is smoother and will cast farther with a good cleaning and bearing flush as well .. always set the tension for each lure to prevent back lash on the spool ..

note the gear is lightly greased and pawl catch tines are close set so as not to be too loose on catch gear or too tight

note the assembly is cleaned and oiled
readdy for reassembly !

note the gear and filthy over greased washer stack when taken apart!

use a light film of grease on stock penn and abu drag washers and hookset problems: the reason for a light film is this ,when the drags are being used they build up heat right fast, this heat in turn can turn a stack of brass blue , if you see that blue look on the brass you know its gotten hot enuff to harden the washers thru the heat tempering them to get that color also heat erosion will trash micarta or fiber washers in a fast amount of time what i use for drag grease is lubrimatic heavy duty lithium barium grease with graphite, this repels water and heat and works for me real well, ive saved and resurected 25 year old drag washers with this stuff also ,breaking the glaze on the washers helps alot using a 600 grit emery wet/dry sandpaper this will let use use a less amount of a turn on the drag wheel to get a setting easier as well. or greasing the gear shafts just use the same method in the conventional reel section, just grease gear teeth on large and small cogs, and drags while they're open as shown on right and then reassemble sides again , also keep flip lever up as well to engage its pin properly ,also make sure that catch pawl is set on the gear face right too ,that way when you do a hook set it will stop cold ,Note that pic on right is of an over greased gear and crankshaft All that is needed is a light film on the dragwashers and on the gear teeth, note the lower picture has been cleaned and a light greasing applied, never add more than a drop of oil to the pawl shaft and catch, thats one spot you over grease and wonder why it doesnt engage the catch on the gear tooth , i spread the 2 copper tines apart so it travels freely with out alot of pressure .i just want enough pressure on the lower catch gear sides so that the pawl rides above the treeth and has enough pressure to pull down on a hookset or a stop ,remember too tight the pawl wont move back or catch,too loose it flies above the teeth bouncing off the gear and wearing out faster a light oiling on the pin will let it fly above the teeth with out bouncing off them too.note how excess grease has been cleaned off too. this is so grease doesnt clog the bearings on the spool or fill the pawl up with grease preventing it from working properly, also if you are very carefull a little bent haed steel wire or block can be added to the pawl so it will stop over travel and as well increase hookset speed without missing a tooth.for this you want to use a heatsink so not to retemper the tines and use a hard solder ,i use silver solder its a higher melt temp for a 200 watt iron and has about 400 psi holding power.if you use a pin wire you can bend it exacly to fit and take all the slack out as well in a v shape. where as a stop out of brass sheet may take time fitting to get rid of all over play ,note that when you measure the distance to have the pawl riding just over the teeth with no contact to eliminate error.