Food
Uromastyx are primarily herbivores, with (usually) a taste for insects
on the side. My primary diet is composed of fresh Collard greens,
Kale (in moderation), Dandelion greens, mustard greens, turnip
greens and other dark
leafy greens. Also included are the more "bitter" lettuces as the escarole,
endive and some nappa cabbage. Nappa cabbage is actually from the
bok choy family as regular and red cabbage is bad for them. Thawed
frozen mixed veggies (the peas, carrot, green bean, and corn) seems
to be a favorite
with my uro, but have read that too much peas can cause constipation
problems. So far, this has not been a problem for her. Also have
read that if supplemented with vitamins and calcium, peas do more
good than bad. Finely chopped zucchini and carrot also are added
to the mix. I tend
to chop enough food for at least a week, so as to save time when
feeding time comes. She is fed once a day and the unconsumed food
is removed within
4-5 hours, since it will be pretty dried up by then. This is optional
as I've found some uros tend to wait until things are pretty dried
up. Don't forget, out in the desert, there probably isn't a whole
lot of fresh juicy
greens.
Chopped fruits, such as apple, strawberries, and other assorted
berries are said to be a sought after food by the uros. Mine,
however, doesn't seem to care much for them. Approximately once a week, I'll
treat my Uro to 3-4 crickets. The crickets should not be any larger
than the width of the Uro's head. This usually holds true for most lizards.
Also,
unless coated with some calcium powder, the crickets don't have
much of a health advantage. Some Uros have lived comfortably on feeding every
other day so you will need to familiarize yourself with the needs of
your own pet. There is one thing that virtually everyone does agree
on, and that is that you should not put water in the terrarium. The
amendment to this, seems to be for geyri. Mine do drink regularly from the
shallow
dish (see the video on the "videos" page). Outdoor cages would probably
be ok. All the moisture the Uro needs is obtained from the food.
Too high of a humidity can create respiratory problems for the Uromastyx.
Humidity
is discussed on another page.
For uros that are acclimating, or seemed to have lost their appetite,
we all know that this is not good. Drop in food intake, can lead
to loss in metabolism, feeling bad, more loss of appetite, and so
on.
I've found that there isn't any one sure thing that uros like.
I think most will agree that each individual uro has it's own personality
and preferences. You'll probably have to experiment in finding
out
what yours likes and dislikes. I've found that common "favorites" with
many uros, may not be even liked with mine. Also, over time, tastes
may change. Some of the "good" stuff that I've heard about and also
discovered are the fresh yellow dandelion flowers (when I say fresh,
I mean picked off my lawn), mustard greens, gazania rigens, commonly
known as the "treasure flower", of which Rocky goes nuts for, dry
mix, and one that I got from Deer Fern Farms, bee pollen granules.
If you just got the uros, I've found, accidentally, that the dry
mix will get them eating. It's been noted that a possible problem,
is
that if they're dehydrated, the dry mix may make it worse. My opinion is
that if they're dehydrated, they're not going to eat anything anyway.
Make sure that if they appear to be not eating, that there is always
a variety of food available anyway. Acclimation is kind of stressful
for both the owner and the uro, but I haven't read anything about
uros not making it during acclimation.
Dry mix can be many different combinations of ingredients. Both my geyri eat daily from their supply of dry mix. It consists of dried split lentils, dried split peas, birdseed (with the sunflower seeds removed), dry juvenile iguana food, and bee pollen granules. Before Runako was eating his first fresh food (dandelion flowers) he was crunching away at his dry mix.

Needless syringe feeding
When Rocky appeared to "come down with something," I'd just maxed out my credit card trying to save my female, so I was determined to do what I could on my own. He stopped eating, then, as he had in the past, he started to get lethargic, not moving around too much, and eyes closed most of the time. Last time this had happened, two big shots of fluids and a tube feeding turned things around. So I took it upon myself to head to the grocery store and get those baby food jars that read just like my uro's dinner list. The vet gave me a 6cc syringe without a needle (let's face it, I wanted to help, not make things worse), and I also picked up some pedialyte at the store. Twice a day to start, I'd take take a shot glass, not that I had any, and go 50% pedialyte and 50% baby food. Stir it up and place it in a water glass of the hottest tap water I could get. Once it warmed up, took him out and have everything ready to feed. Then, with a full syringe (6cc for a then 88 gram geyri) I'd work it in between his "lips" by the hinge of his mouth. Once he'd get a taste, he'd start "lickin' his chops" and that's when I'd put the whole tip of the syringe in his mouth, and start feeding it in. I found it easier if I held him at a 45+ degree angle, as he would start to open his throat area, and the whole contents of the syringe would go in. I don't really think he'd swallow it until later, but as long as it wasn't coming back out, I was ok with it. He didn't stress or dislike it too much, as after, I could set him down on the couch, and he'd stroll around instead of running.
I did this twice a day for about 1-2 weeks, then I would start to wean him down to once a day (twice a day here and there if I thought he'd take it in). Also, I'd start going with a bit more food and less pedialyte. Eventually, in about 3-4 weeks, it was very noticeable that his energy, weight, and appetite came back. I now keep all the necessary stuff here incase I need it again.
This is just a thought and not saying that this will help, but I can't see why it would hurt. Rocky's now plump enough that he looks like he's "puffed" up in defense (little fatso). The heaviest he's been before this, was 118gm, and as of mid May, he weighed in at 154 gm!
(Note: The feeding with a needless syringe was done with Rocky because, for reasons unknown, he stopped eating, which caused his metabolism and energy to drop,
cause dehydration, which in turn caused him to feel bad, therefore not to
eat, and it spiraled down until he was outright lethargic. Only then did I
resort to the baby food/pedialyte through the syringe.) I plan on video taping the feeding that I've done so people can put a "visual" to the attempted explanation.
Supplements
Supplements are important because, in most cases, Uros in captivity
do not get enough of the needed vitamins and calcium. There are many different
brands of supplements on the market, but 80% to 90% of people agree
on the same ones. For calcium supplements, Rep-cal, which is a phosphorous
free
supplement with vitamin D. For a vitamin supplement, Reptivite powder
is preferred. These powders are sprinkled on the food every other feeding to
every third feeding. These, along with the UVB light, is sufficient to
keep your Uro healthy.
As of mid-May, Rocky and Runako have been put on a liquid calcium supplement
I either inject this into mealworms or drip onto their favorite foods.
It seems that the powdered calcium just didn't agree with their palette,
and therefore, they weren't eating it. This became apparent when I noticed
Rocky having "muscle tremors" while he was relaxed. These showed up as
his feet and toes involuntarily moving around, seemingly unbeknownst
to him. These tremors were noticed before Lizzy, my mali, died and was
diagnosed
as calcium deficiency. After a shot from the vet, the next day the tremors
were gone, and I switched to the liquid. I also started them on a pro
biotic to aid in keeping their bacteria levels normal. So far, all seems
well.
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