A Death Valley Travelogue

A Quick Trip Through Death Valley:
A Travelogue to Death Valley National Park
Copyright (C) 1996 by Tony L. Hill. All rights reserved.
[May be freely distributed without modification for non-commercial purposes.]

[Most of this was written in April 1996 as an e-mail to a British tourist who was planning a brief drive through the valley. I have revised it after my own return visit later that month. Let me know what you think, and perhaps I'll share some of what I saw on a _long_ trip to the Valley.]

Hi there! A quick trip through Death Valley is indeed possible, as I have done it myself... twice.

The best way from Vegas to Death Valley is a road that is so new, you'll barely find it on maps. The road is in the 1996 road atlases, but not the 1995 ones. I drove it in December 1995 and again in April 1996 and the signs weren't up yet.

Anyway, from Vegas take the Blue Diamond Highway, number 160 I think. It's the road that goes to Pahrump, Nevada. Go about 3 miles (?) past Pahrump (a very spread out desert town; you'll probably think you've missed the turnoff for about 15 minutes). You'll see a sign indicating the road to Death Valley. Take a left. The drive from LV to DV is about two hours. Once you're on the new road, you'll be in Death Valley Junction before you know it. Take California 190 from there.

For a quick trip, here is the itinerary I suggest:

Go to Dante's View, which I think is the first attraction off 190 (the park has recently been expanded, so I don't know if the entrance signs are still where they used to be). It's about 15 miles off 190 and very much worth seeing. From over a mile up, you can look straight down a 60 degree precipice into the valley floor. Fabulous views. Best photo op in the whole place.

Next, backtrack to 190 and turn left, heading back the way you were going. There are a few look-sees and photo ops along the road. Twenty Mule Team Canyon is a one-way loop which is very much worth the drive. The loop road contains magnificent scenery not visible from 190. Next is Zabriskie Point. It's a pretty good climb uphill from the parking lot, but very much worth it. You get 360 degrees of scenery from up there. You also get a pretty good view of the Golden Canyon, which means you might not need to stop there. Not far past Z-Point is Furnace Creek. Near the Furnace Creek Inn is the turnoff to Badwater. Take a left here. Actually, you got to see just about all you needed to of Badwater from Dante's View. I personally wanted to visit the hottest place in the world and lowest point in North America. But it's up to you. You won't _see_ much more at Badwater, but you can claim to have had the experience. It is about a 40 mile round trip if you choose to backtrack, and if you choose to drive straight to L.A. from Badwater, you won't see too much essential along the way.

Anyway, about three miles down the Badwater road is Golden Canyon. You can get a pretty good idea of the canyon from the parking lot, and even better if you walk a mile or so in. Gorgeous colors.

Another six or seven miles along the road is the Artist's Drive. It is a one way loop entered from the south. Definitely worth the trip.

If you choose to visit Badwater, make a left at the end of the Artist's Drive. You'll pass the Natural Bridge, which is quite good. However, if you're not going to Badwater, it's not worth the extra drive just to see the bridge, which is a fairly good hike off the road anyway. In that case, you'll make a right turn at the end of the Artist's Drive and head back to 190.

There is a parking lot and marker at Badwater. Please don't walk onto the salt pan. A tourist died there just a few years ago, by not carrying enough water for his trek to the actual lowest point (only 3 feet lower than the Badwater parking lot anyway).

Here you'll need to make a decision. If it's getting late, you'll want to continue on the Badwater Road the way you were headed, out of the park to California 178, to Shoshone, and then California 127 to Baker and I-15 to Los Angeles. I drove that road after dark once myself and wouldn't wish it on anyone else. Therefore, it's important to get out of the park before dark.

If it's still reasonably early, turn around back to 190. Furnace Creek is more human than natural (I have a friend who scoffs at the Visitor Center having a lawn); but please stop there anyway and pay your park fee. The Visitor Center has a fabulous shop, although the museum is rather spartan. Keep along Rt 190 to Stovepipe Wells. Just before the village are some of the sand dunes. Turn off 190 (follow signs) and explore the dunes.

I happen to like Mosaic Canyon, just past Stovepipe Wells on the other side. But bear in mind that you'll need to spend at least an hour in there to experience anything worthwhile. The rock trail is like marble. Walking up only a few feet feels a lot like walking on ice. I've only been about two miles up the canyon. It's actually one of the deeper canyons in the park.

The routes and distances are less clear in my head for the rest of my description. Please check a map before doing anything.

Continue on 190 (no doubt the longest hill you've ever climbed). About 8 miles up is the turnoff to Wildrose. If it's early, take this route. Otherwise, keep going on 190.

The road to Wildrose is quite scenic and has some of the narrowest hairpins you've ever driven thtrough. If you liked Dante's View, you might want to detour to Aguereberry Point, its western counterpart. There's more vegetation near Aguereberry than at Dante. This is a 12 mile round trip back to the Wildrose road. I once saw three bighorn sheep dining together on a hill near the end of the road. The view from Aguereberry is not quite as good as Dante (it's blocked considerably by a mountain), but if you like quartzite formations, the point is not to be missed.

From Wildrose, continue on to Trona. The route is a bit wild and wooly, but fun and exciting too. I negotiated the washboard road in a 1996 Buick Century and car, passenger, and I all survived. If that's not to your liking, you can take the long way from 190 to Trona.

If you chose not to take the Wildrose road and are continuing on 190, you again have several options. Again, check the map first. You can catch the aforementioned road to Trona going the less hectic route; you can stop off at Darwin Falls and Father Crowley Point which are newly added to DVNP.

Going back to LA through Trona is shorter. Taking 190 to 395 is the more traveled road and probably has better pavement. But be advised: it is the MOST TREACHEROUS stretch of highway I have ever encountered. There are sections of 190 where you will see NOTHING except the white line at the side of the road as you make your way up and down. There are also rollercoaster spots where you will not see what is on the top of the hill until you are there. Either way, it's a worthy adventure.

In either case, take US 395 to California 14 to Los Angeles.

Hope this helps. Have a great time in the Valley!

Tony

http://www.nyx.net/~thill