When LGB entered this market, they chose to replicate the 1 meter gauged trains found across Europe which scaled out to 1:22.5 resulting in model with strong character and good physical size. Following this strategy of using the No. 1 gauge track, a 3' narrow gauge model works out to 1:20.3 scale and standard gauge (4' 8-1/2" gauge) models would be 1:32, but some are scaled at 1:29 instead. 1:24 scale models should represent 42" gauge prototypes, but this scale is often used for 36" prototypes simply because scaling at 1/2" to the foot is much easier multiple to work with.
Prototype narrow gauge equipment is physically smaller than standard gauge equipment. A narrow gauge boxcar is typically 30' to 32' long. A standard gauge boxcar might be 40' to 50' long. When these models are scaled to run on 45 mm track, the physical size of the models often work out to be nearly the same so that when the models are run together, they look about the same size though there may be noticeable differences in style and era.

To further complicate the picture, each manufacturer largely builds to a specific scale but even at that, models in their portfolio may vary in scale also. LGB is primarily 1:22.5 (due to their European meter gauge heritage). Aristo is at 1:29 (due to a fudge to make models of standard gauge prototypes "look" better when placed next to 1:22.5 scale models) and Bachmann equipment scaled to be between 1:24 and 1:22.5 with 1:20.3 now making an appearance.
Bachmann is now leading the charge into the 1:20.3 scale with their exquisite shay, climax, 4-4-0, 2-6-0 and 2-8-0 outside frame models and with more on the way. With time, more manufactures will be joining this "true" 3 ft scale.
There is a variety of 1:32 scale models available but most of it is finescale equipment fabricated in brass. These models are highly detailed and VERY expensive. There are some plastic models that are close to 1:32 scale. USA Trains steel box cars and some MDC cars are acceptably close. But for the most part 1:32 scale modelers must either have very deep pockets or build their own.

1:29 scale is the defacto scale of choice for mainline standard gauge models simply because the vast majority of available relatively low cost plastic models are manufactured in that scale (Aristo and USA Trains). By measurements, most of the models are pretty self consistent in dimensions except that many of the Aristo models are too tall (due to excessive spacing between the trucks and the carbody) and most of the USA locomotives are too low (due to small wheels).

In addition to ready to run equipment, there are a number of manufactures who provide detail parts and rolling stock kits. Structure kits, both bridges and buildings are also available to the modeler.

1:29
Aristo introduced this scale to represent standard gauge equipment. Most popular "standard gauge" scale despite model gauge being incorrect.

1:20.3
True scale to represent 3' gauge trains on No.1 gauge track. With the recent locomotives released by Bachmann this scale is now gaining momentum and a strong following.

1:22.5
Scale introduced by LGB to represent 1 meter gauge trains on the No. 1 gauge track. Prior to the introduction of mass produced products in 1:20, a lot of equipment was and still is produced in 1:22 and 1:24 for narrow gauge models.

1:24
Since this scales out 1/2" to the foot it is the easiest scale to scratch build in. Prior to the introduction of mass produced products in 1:20, a lot of equipment was and still is produced in 1:24 for narrow gauge models.

7/8"n2
7/8n2 is the newest and largest of the "garden" railway sizes. It has been developed in the past few years by modelers who use "G" gauge (45mm) track, running correctly scaled models of two-foot narrow gauge trains. The proportion of 13.7:1 is 50% larger than 1:20.3. In 7/8 scale the track gauge of 1-3/4" equals two feet, thus 7/8 of an inch to the foot.

Railways in 7/8n2 are divided into two categories:

1.

Industrial, plantation, logging and "critter" railways which are patterned after smaller prototypes, which typically have 4-wheel, short wheelbase locomotives and cars, or geared types of steam locos. These include Welsh slate quarry lines, peat bog, brick yard, sand pit and sugar cane railways. The advantage to the smaller 4-wheel 7/8n2 trains is that they may be operated on existing tight radius tracks with few modifications.

2.

Maine prototype two-foot models which "main line" in appearance, and can reach lengths of 24-30 inches for a 8-wheel freight car, with locomotives such as the Forney types or small 2-6-0 and 2-6-2's. These lend themselves to live steam operation and can weigh over twenty pounds. The Maine two foot models in 7/8 scale require 12 to 16 foot radius curves whereas the industrial railways can run on 5 foot radius. At present no true 7/8n2 locomotives are available commercially, although several are in the planning stages. Small industrial switchers can be upsized from a variety of commercially available 4 wheel locos, with larger cabs and 7/8 scale details added. Trucks and parts for Maine type freight cars, and 4 wheel cars are available as are kits for basic 4-wheel rolling stock.

There is talk about establishing a designation system for Large Scale trains that would remove some of the confusion the public is experiencing regarding the scales. The LSOL designations (currently a proposal) are as follows;

• LS20 = 1/20.3 scale,
• LS22 = 1/22.5 scale,
• LS24 = 1/24 scale,
• LS29 = 1/29 scale and
• LS32 = 1/32 scale.

Scale Summary

As evidenced by the proliferation of scales / ratios available in Large Scale, there are many interpretations of what is the "ideal" scale. Each of the scales are based on justifiable arguments yet are not necessarily intercompatable, especially to the purist. This mirrors the HO Scale market of years ago before the NMRA stepped in and established industry standards. Should the NMRA intervene here also? I suspect not, just as long the buyer is aware of the scales and ramifications there of. With time, the market will stabilize on the scales which make sense.

The 1:22.5 and 1:24 scales remain the chosen ones for narrow gauge equipment though 1:20 is quickly gaining ground in NA and will no doubt become the reigning scale. 1:29 will likely remain the Standard gauge scale despite 1:29 being the correct scale translation.
Much of the equipment currently available was originally designed more for the toy market than the serious modelers though this is changing as more "scale modelers" join this Large Scale phenominum and demand the higher which manufactures like Bachmann and Hartford are responding to.

Since most railroad equipment is large it doesn't take much of a scale difference to add up quickly even in linear measurement. The difference for a foot for instance, in LS24 is ½", in LS22 is 17/32" and in LS20 is 19/32". Doesn't seem like much but it can add up quickly. Examining a 30' boxcar which is 15" in LS24, it goes to almost 16 inches in LS22 and to 17 ¾" in LS20. Even using the often quoted "10' rule" a 2 ¾" difference can be detected if two cars supposedly of the same length are operated next to each other.

Compromise is with us regardless of what scale one chooses to model. With the exception of those modeling to extra fine scale standards all scales typically use oversized wheels, couplers and rail. If for instance "N" scale wheel parameters were increased to large scale size they would be even more grossly oversized than what is typical for large scale. Small scale locomotives typically have compromised dimensions to allow for oversized wheel flanges and the need to operate on tighter than prototype curves. In large scale these types of compromises are more easily noticed due to the larger size of the models and hence may be more objectionable.

	Scale	Actual Gauge		Prototype Gauge		Manufactures	Notes
		mm	inches	inches	mm
LS32	1:32	1.772	45	56.5	1435.1		Correct for standard gauge
LS29	1:29	1.772	45			Aristo	Bastard gauge
LS24	1:24 (1/2")	1.772	45	42	1066.8	Bachmann
LS22	1:22.5 (17/32") "G"	1.772	45	39.37	1000	LGB, Bachmann	Correct for 1m narrow gauge
LS20	1:20.3 (19/32")	1.772	45	36	914.4	Bachmann	Correct for 3ft narrow gauge
	7/8n2	1.772	45	24			Correct for 2ft narrow gauge

When one thinks of Large Scale Model Railroading, they immediately think of gardens with trees and plants and even fish ponds. The great outdoors, with our trains lazily running among the natural foliage on a perfect on a warm summer afternoon. This is not always the case as the type of outdoor railroad is quite varied along with Large Scale railroads can often be found indoors as well.

Running trains outdoors was the original market niche for Large Scale trains be it in some one's back yard, atrium or even trade show. The mere size of the models dictated large floor areas despite adhering to small prototypes.

• Larger radius curves and long runs are possible.
• You are able to run trains in all types of weather - sun, rain, snow, cold, wind, etc.
• Railroad maintenance takes on a new meaning as track must be cleaned of natural debris, adjustments due to frost heave, real wash outs, etc.
• You have to bend down to put the cars on the track.
• Switching turnouts usually means walking from one end of the train to the other.
• Scenery usually equates to moving tons of rocks and dirt.
• Vegetation requires constant nurturing and trimming.
• Working on the railroad involves bringing the tools out and putting them away when you are done.
• Rolling stock is rarely left outdoors, these must be brought out and returned after each session.
• Though structures can summer outside in Canada, it is recommended to take them indoors for the winter so the frost doesn't take them apart.

Building a layout indoors can be a little more challenging especially if you desire continuous running. As model railroads are often miniatures of real trains that run from point A to point Z, delivering goods to points along the way, a credible layout can be built. A point to point railroad indoors does not have to be 6' wide. A shelf of 18" to 30" will give you plenty of room for track, sidings and scenery.
A return loop at each end can be added but you must take into account the type of trains you will be running. The minimum large scale radius is 30" which will require a 5' 6" of space to make a loop. The more realistic 48"r will require 8' 6" to make a loop. Out doors, we recommend a minimum radius of 5 ft. Thus an "around the walls" arrangement would work best for a continuous indoor layout.
Indoor layouts are likely to be of a higher, scale quality than their sisters outside.

• Limited by size constraints.
• Great for those visually challenged.
• When you are done, you can turn off the light and leave, no cleaning up the tools and cars.

• Stone Dust - This is the simplest and involves building a linear mound of stone dust just like the prototype does with ballast. The trackage is then laid on top. This allows the road bed to flex with the seasons with minimal damage. Typical, before the first run in the spring and after the frost has left the ground, a quick inspection of the roadbed is required to reposition and track and to level out and undulations the developed. A simple task of moving some stone dust around.
• Pressure Treated Wood - Similar to building a basement layout (except on a grander scale) with the right of way comprised of a series of pressure treated 2x6's that are laid end to end and screwed together with splicing plates. The track is then laid on top and fastened with nails or screws. This assembly will then "float" on the ground through the seasons but will remain together thus providing a reliable right of way. It is recommended a good gravel base be installed under the wood thus minimizing rot over time.
• Concrete - Some folks like to be more aggressive in the battle of frost heave and build the rod bed out of concrete. This requires a channel to be dug and forms installed to hold the concrete. The track is then attached to the top of the concrete. Though very strong, modifications are difficult and unless posts are sunk down below the frost line, the assembly will be subject to frost heave and eventually crack.
• Blue Styrofoam - Saw this one on a web page. Similar to building with wood except this person sunk wooden posts into the ground then strung 3" high strips of Styrofoam between the posts. Another layer of Styrofoam was laid across the vertical pieces which the track was attached to. Once again the objective is beat Jack Frost by installing post, but unlike concrete, Styrofoam is easier to work with and cheaper.

• Loop & Hook (Talgo): These couplers are comprised of a loop and hook arrangement, simple and effective though far from prototypical. They are designed for toy trains, rough track and young children. They couple easily and usually stay together well and are usually attached to the trucks. Varieties of this coupler are supplied with over half the cars in the hobby today even if another type of couple is supplied.
• Plastic Knuckle Coupler. Several manufacturers make plastic knuckle couplers and include them with their car and engines. Most have a tendency to require a hard hit between cars to couple and also do not always stay coupled. Once again, not all brands necessarily mate with each other. This may not be an issue if you standardize on one brand.
• Kadee Knuckle Couplers. As with all other scales, Kadee has entered this scale in a big way and continues to be the default standard. These are authentic looking couplers which operate much the same as their HO cousins. Kadee also makes conversion kits for many of the popular cars and offers large flat uncoupling magnets for installation between the rails. Kadee couplers are available in both No.1 (used for 1:32 & 1:29 scales) and G scale (used for 1:20 & 1:22 scales) versions of which most modelers use the No.1 scale version as they are closer to scale.
• Link & Pin. For those into scale reproduction of old prototypes, there are working link and pin couplers on the market. These function just like the prototype and ca be lots of fun for the indoor layouts.

The majority of Large Scale equipment sold today is intended to run using conventional DC power to the rails. Conventional DC powering depends on good electrical connections between the power pack and the motor in the engine. This means that solid rail joints, good electrical pick-up and clean track is of prime importance. All of which can be a challenge for an outdoor layout.
Wiring is that same for an smaller scale layout where blocks are used to facilitate running multiple trains at the same time and reversing blocks are required for return loops etc.

• Low cost.
• No engine modifications necessary (which may affect warranty.)
• Compatible with most layouts.

• Requires dividing layouts into blocks for multiple train operation.
• More elaborate wiring than more sophisticated options.
• No independent on/off control of lights remotely.

Command Control lends itself well to the Large Scale trains with it's implementation and features the same as with the smaller scales. As with Conventional DC Power, the track is used to provide power and signal path to the locomotives. All leading DCC Manufactures provide receivers capable of handling the higher power requirements of the large trains.
Since the track voltage with DCC remains the same regardless of engine speed, ie always at maximum, operation at slow speed tends to be somewhat more reliable with slightly dirty track than with DC power where the track voltage is reduced for slow speed.

• Simplified wiring of layout, blocks only required to increase power (current) provided to layout.
• Fully independent operation of all trains.
• Constant voltage available from track for lights, smoke units etc. These will continue to operate while train is stopped.
• Fully independent control of auxiliary functions, bells, whistles, horn, light on/off etc.

• Relatively high cost compared to conventional DC.
• Engine modification required, could void warranty.

• Automatic Reverse Loop Control.
• Stationary decoders for switches etc.
• Wireless throttles.

With the great distances involved with Garden Railroads, the implementation of Radio Control has become the norm as it allows the operator to follow his train without trailing cumbersome cables around.

• No track cleaning required, could be important especially for large outdoor layouts.
• Track construction simplified since good electric conductivity is not an issue.
• Fully independent operation of all trains.
• Constant voltage available from battery for lights, smoke units etc. These will continue to operate while train is stopped.
• Fully independent control of auxiliary functions, bells, whistles, horn, light on/off etc.

• Higher cost than conventional DC.
• Engine modification required, could void warranty.
• Running time limited, determined by battery capacity.
• Battery charging and maintenance required.
• Systems use proprietary transmission techniques, must stay with one supplier for each transmitter/receiver combination.

And for those who wish to model the ultimate in realism as far as powering steam engines is concerned, they can use the closest to the real thing, Live Steam! This option mimics the operation of real steam locomotives except that liquid fuel is typically used to power the steam engine rather than coal or oil. Control of the Live Steam engines is either by manual manipulation of controls on the engine of remotely via Radio Control. Layouts tailored to Live Steam operation are often built on raised beds / wood frames to make reaching the locomotive controls easier.

• No track cleaning required, could be important especially for large outdoor layouts.
• Track construction simplified since good electric conductivity is not an issue.
• Fully independent operation of all trains using R/C.
• Fully independent control of auxiliary functions, bells, whistles, horn, light on/off etc. possible with on-board batteries; real steam whistles possible.
• Wireless operation inherent in this approach.

• Higher cost than conventional DC.
• Special Live Steam engines required; limited selection.
• Limited running time determined by fuel capacity
.
• Substantially more engine maintenance required than with the other powering options.

Though Sound Systems are not a true "Power Option", it is worthy to take note of this new and rapidly growing aspect of the hobby. Sound Systems are available for all of the different powering options discussed, although they are seldom used with Live Steam. Because the Large Scale engines are relatively large and can accommodate reasonably sized speakers, on-board sound is a popular option and a variety of engines are available with the sound system already integrated by the manufacturer.
For both integrated and add-on sound systems, it is important that one verifies compatibility with Command Control and/or R/C on-board battery operation since systems that depend on a varying DC track voltage as an input signal may not operate correctly with anything but a pure DC throttle.