1970 VW Squareback 1600 to RX7 rotary conversion.
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rotary engine demo rotary engine demo rotary engine demo

07-27-01. Oh my. It's been a while. Much therapy, and visits to doctors, lawyers, and insurance companies has gone by. Did I say that right? Who cares. In the mean time, somewhere around May I started feeling good enough to work on the car again, but now it's HOT outside, and in the garage. garage. 106 right now, so you know why I'm inside. Mazda Trix sent me some exhaust parts, and Racing Beat sent me a cool 465 cfm Holley Carb kit 465 cfm Holley Carb kit . Chris from Chris Welding has been helping me A LOT. The boy can weld. When I say boy, I mean he's a retired US Navy Welder and knows his stuff. He's been helping me lately with the exhaust exhaust system. So far we've built a custom header, and next we'll be making a section to go between the catalytic converter and the muffler. The exhaust comes out of the engine, makes a "u-e", and goes through the cat and back under and back under the bell-housing to hook up with the muffler and out the back. This should add a clean look to the car by keeping the exhaust system tucked out of sight. Concerns with this approach are too much back pressure or too much heat close to the power-train. I can use heat shields to limit the amount of heat radiation, but I will have to be my own experiment on the back pressure issue. I can always change the exhaust later. Also some time back, I painted the door  jams and dash. jams and dash. (lot's of oooh-ing, ahhh-ing for you sarcastic types) ;) I plan to paint the car the same color as my  ghia ghia was. Nope no more ghia, I sold it with no tears to make room for this project.

Later that night.... Couldn't resist. Went out and bolted up the  carb. carb. Hmmm. Instructions suck. I mean, these were really weak. About the only help I got was one torque spec. The rest of the instructions were like some kind of riddle carefully concocted by one of those old timers who knows how to tell you exactly what to do in the least amount of words. Sit down and contemplate exactly what he says for a couple of hours, and you'll get it right. But go right out and try to do it... hehehe. Anyway, I got it. I learned that when it says "Install the carburetor on the manifold using flat washers, lock washers, and nuts supplied" that is exactly right, but keep in mind there is no mechanical drawing. The correct way is just that. If you have extra nuts and bolts, youv'e done something wrong. Am I making sense here? What I mean is you have to see through the riddle. The four bolts go up through the bottom, two of them through a bracket, with lock washers. The other two, with a flat washer and lock washer. Then you place the carb on the bolts coming through top of the manifold and use the remaining four flat washers and nuts to secure it, torqueing them as specified in the instructions.

;-) I guess you had to be there.

07-28-01. The engine sure looks better now with a  carb on it. carb on it. I've been working on the interior and wiring of the car today. Taking a little break from the afternoon heat right now. Seems like there is a little light at the end of the tunnel. Still need to work on the AC system, and cooling system, but those are easy tackles. Still, no time frame promises.

07-29-01 Got it running! just kidding, but I did get the stereo running. Man the wiring was in bad shape under the dash. I had to rip out the 31 year old fuse box fuse box and start over. Some good blade type fuse boxes should reduce the chance of an electrical fire. For those of you who know me... keep those comments to yourself. Most of my car fires have not been my fault... ahem, directly ;) I learned how to do all of this electrical stuff because of those fires anyhow.

10-27-01: Well, what can I say? Many hours of contemplation, fabrication, weldication, and hard work with no vacation ;-) I've got plenty of work ahead. I still need to do some wiring and some sanding, but I'll leave the paint to the pros. I've been enjoying this nice weather and putting in lots of midnight oil on the little VW. My neighbor says I should call it the junkyard warrior because of the strange mix of parts like a Chevy radiator and Mazda engine with a Holley carb and, yes, a Ford Taurus radiator fan all mounted to this poor ol 1970 VW Squareback IT RUNS! It's alive! My creation lives! email me at donduck2000@hotmail.com and I can send you a mini movie so you can hear it run!

First drive. A bit disappointing. After leaving skid marks on the driveway a few days ago, I thought this ride would have been quicker. Plus the car runs sooo hot, we had to pull over a couple of times.
Diagnosis: I have an easy half inch o slack in the throttle cable! with no slack I don't quite get full throttle yet. I can fix the throttIe with a small adjustment, and by making an amplifier lever which will pull the throttle at 1.25 times the amount I push the gas pedal. I bolted the original fan back on the engine, and it seems to hold the temp steady. With a huge electric fan on the way by UPS, JEGS online, and Permacool, by the end of the week I hope to have a new story. goodness. that solid squareback feels like a go-kart.

I took it today to get smogged and it failed. They are going to get it adjusted right with the diagnostic computers. It runs great! I'm having too much fun getting up to the speed limit in first gear, and then just kinda coasting along. On the freeway today I put it in third to pass a car and at 65 fourth gear is at the very bottom of the operating range for this engine.! I guess that's cool to me because most VW's are topped out around 75. uh, I'm gettn used to the car. I love driving it in light traffic. Umm farfegnugin, fugnbroken, farfomthinkn? Well, I picked up some stuff at Home Depot tonight to make an air-dam. I need to do something about the natural flow of air through the engine compartment so the radiator gets proper airflow. I went through 1st and 2nd. Nice gentle starts, and nice gentle shifts, but rolling on the throttle all the way through the power band. Second gear will definitely get me a ticket in a 35 zone. So second gear just needs a short push and then you're doing 45 and cruising in third with the engine sounding like a rodded out V8 at idle. The car is fast, but it's got no hole shot. The gears are way too tall for that engine. I noticed a LOUD clunky noise on my way home. It started off as a minor vibration during accelerations, and by the time I got home I was gettn worried. I think it might be a CV joint. It gets slower and louder at low speeds, and faster and softer at higher speeds. Defiantly speed related, not the engine. I'm hoping it's a CV joint, but if I had to pull the tranny it wouldn't make me feel too bad cuz I think a lower gear ratio would be better. I've not driven too many VW's where I felt that way. I guess I'm the beta tester for this car. Only time will tell.

And if any body wants to guess what the FIRST part to fail on my conversion kit was go ahead! ;-) Nope! You guys are all wrong! It wasn't the electrical system, although that was second. Actually, I got a new rebuilt alternator with a bad diode. Everything was fine for a week or so, but the diode went bad and drained the battery. I jumped started the car, check charging voltage and it read good. Thinking I had possibly left an accessory on, or had run into a new electrical problem in my untested rewiring job, I wasn't too worried. So I took the car to get smog tested, and made it about 4 miles. The alternator quit me for good, and the battery still hadn't regained a charge. I looked for a place to pull over and found one. I called for backup, but I was able to limp home under my own power thanks to the help of my handheld jumper battery, aka the juice for my Halloween costume this year. I was light boy. 200 feet of indoor/outdoor lights and an inverter coming out of my backpack battery. Well, anyhow, Checker tested the alternator and happily gave me a new one. If you're still with me, it was the Ford part that first failed. I don't see any surprised looks do I? The Taurus radiator fan was a bad idea. I tried to save a buck on a fan, but it didn't pay off. Guess I know why that car was in the junkyard. Junk.

11-20-01 Well, the car still gets too hot. I can drive it for a few miles, then turn the heater on and go gently home. The thing is just not cooling. Radiator temp rapidly accelerates to 210, but will cool steadily at an idle. The slightest throttle usage just sends the temperature sky-rocketing. I've built some air dams under the car, trying to encourage good air flow through the radiator. I'm at a point now where I think there is something wrong maybe in the fuel mixture or ignition timing that I just don't see. Man the car runs good. I'm getting used to driving it, and it likes to be driven at high rpms and wants to go fast. 80 mph on the freeway is a happy speed for the engine, but too bad I can only be on the freeway for one mile before I gotta pull off and let the car cool down. I'm somewhat baffled here. Even though the radiator is in back, it's huge and dual electric fans should pull enough air through. There is something wrong I am not yet seeing. Through perseverance I will find this problem, track it down and cool that engine off! I'll be back!

ps: I fixed the vibration and clunking problem. Let's not forget to retorque the lug nuts on our old Vdubs once in a while.

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donduck2000 since 06/05/00