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The Foot Hemmer is attached to the machine in place of the presser foot. Raise the needle to the highest position, loosen the thumb screw which clamps the presser foot to the presser bar and remove the presser foot. Attach the Foot Hemmer to the bar, taking care to tighten the screw firmly so that the Hemmer will not become loose when the machine is running. Turn the balance wheel slowly to make sure that the needle goes through the center of the needle hole and that the lower thread is properly pulled up.

How to Start the Hem at the Very Edge

How to start the hem at the very edge of the material is of great importance in learning to use the Hemmer. If the hem is not started at the edge and the material is pulled bias, a perftect hem cannot be made.

There are several ways of starting the hem at the edge, but the most practical one is as follows:

1. Fold over about 1/8 inch of the edge of the material at the starting point for a distance of about one inch.
2. Place the material in the Hemmer at an angle leading to the right at a point just beyond the fold.
3. Draw the material toward you through the Hemmer, as shown in Fig. 34, at the same time making the second fold at the very edge. Continue to draw the material through the Hemmer until the edge is just under the needle. Place the upper and lower threads together under the Hemmer foot and assist in starting of the hem by slightly pulling the threads from the back as the machine is run.

Making a Hem with the Foot Hemmer

The same width of material must be kept in the Hemmer at all times. After placing the correct width of material in the Hemmer, hold it in a straight line and you will find it quite easy to make a perfect hem. See Fig. 35.

Making a Hemmed Seam with the Foot Hemmer

The hemmed seam is very practical to use on underwear, or in fact on any garment where a straight seam is used and where a small double seam would be suitable.

When using this seam, the garment must first be fitted and the edge of the material trimmed, allowing for about one-eighth inch seam. The two edges are placed together and inserted in the Hemmer in the same manner as a single hem. If the material is bulky, the edge of the upper piece of material may be placed about one-eighth inch in from the edge of the lower piece. See Fig. 36.

The free edge of a hemmed seam may be stitched flat to the garment if desired. First open the work out flat, then place the hem in the scroll of the Hemmer, which acts as a guide, holding the edge of the hem in position while it is being stitched. If the seam is stitched flat to the garment one row of stitching is visible on the right side. The hemmed seam may he used on muslin, lawn, percale, organdie or other fine materials where a narrow seam is desirable.

Hemming and Sewing on Lace in One Operation

Start the hem in the regular way and with the needle holding the hem in position, raise the pressure bar sufficiently to allow the edge of the lace to be slipped under the Foot Hemmer, at the same time bringing it up through the slot at the right of the Hemmer. See Fig. 37. Lower the bar, turn the balance wheel and catch the edge of the lace with the needle. Guide the hem with the right hand and the lace with the left. Care should be taken not to stretch the lace as it is being fed into the Hemmer.

It is not practical to sew gathered lace on with the Foot Hemmer, as the fulled lace catches in the Hemmer slot.

A very attractive way of applying lace so that the stitching of the hem is not visible is to start the hem in the regular way, slipping the lace in from the left as you would the second piece of material when making a hemmed seam.

April 25, 1997