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Pull the binding through under the presser foot before starting to sew. Note that as the binding passes through the scroll of the Binder the edges are turned in.
Binding May be Purchased Cut and Folded for Use with the Binder . Folded bias binding may be purchased for use with the binder. This binding comes in a variety of materials and colors. Folded bindings for use with the Binder must measure 1/2 inch in width. The No. 5 width in standard brands usually measures 1/2 inch but it is always well to be sure of this before purchasing.
Folded binding is inserted in the outside slot of the binder, as shown in Fig. 43. The Binder is addjusted and operated in the same manner as when using unfolded binding. One-half inch braid or ribbon may he used in the same manner.
A binding inserted in the outside slot of the Binder will he turned only once. It is therefore necessary to have finished edges when using binding in this slot.
Various materials and conditions require different adjustments of the Binder to bring the stitching close to the edge. A wider adjustment of the Binder is required when binding curves than is necessary when binding a straight edge.
To adjust the Binder for stitching, loosen screw (B, Fig. 44) and move scroll to the right for a narrower adjustment and to the left for a wider adjustment. Care should be taken to see that the screw is well tightened after making an adjustment. To become perfectly familiar with the adjustment of the Binder, practice is necessary.
Practice is required to bind a curved edge properly. The edge to be bound must be allowed to pass freely through the scroll and should not be crowded against the wall of it. Guiding should be from the back of the BInder and to the left, allowing unfinished edges to swing naturally into the scroll of the Binder.
Never pull the binding as it feeds through the Binder, as bias material is very easily stretched and will be too narrow when it reaches the needle. When this occurs the edges will not be turned.
When binding a curved edge (see Fig. 45), turn the material only as fast as the machine sews. It is not possible to hold the material in the entire Iength of the scroll when binding a small curve.
Do not push the material in too fast, as the edge will then become puckered, and do not stretch the material or the curve will not be the proper shape when finished. If the stitching does not catch the edge of the binding the scroll should be adjusted a trifle to the left.
It will be necessary to practice binding an inside curve on various kinds of material, as this curve is found on nearly all garments which may be finished with a bound edge.
When binding an inside curve with the Binder, straighten out the edge as it is being fed into the attachment. When doing this, care should be taken not to stretch the edge of the material.
If the material is soft, like batiste or crepe de chine, add a row of machine stitching close to the edge of the curve before binding.
A French Fold is applied by placing the material under the attachment
and stitching the binding in position as shown in Fig. 48. A line
made by basting or with chalk or pencil may be used as a guide in applying
rows where wanted.
April 25, 1997
