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# 5

Durban and beyond...


Our travel experiences in Durban, KwaZulu Natal and visits to other places in Natal

Durban is the third largest metropolitan area in South Africa and one of the important port cities in the Southern Hemisphere. For most South Africans however it is a great holiday playground. With its interesting mix of cultures, balmy climate, and the great rollers of the warm Indian Ocean it is well equipped to spoil any holidaymaker.
Before I tell you about our travels in the rest of Natal a brief introduction and a little history about the region may not be out of place...

Vasco da Gama was the first European to see the spacious almost enclosed bay as he sailed along the coastline at Christmastime in 1497. He therefore named the region Rio de Natal. In 1845 the territory was annexed to the Cape Colony and a steady stream of immigrants, began to arrive on the golden shores of the Empire's newest possession. Prior to that however the region was already part of Shaka's fast expanding Zulu Empire.

The Dolphinarium at Sea World , Durban

Cute Dolpins at Sea World

Umhlanga Rocks north of Durban is an affluent place distinguished by its luxurious hotels, apartment complexes, beautiful ultra modern shopping malls; palatial private residences and inviting restaurants. The beaches are broad and white, the shoreline graced by Ilala palms, hibiscus and colourful tumbles of bougainvillea against an azure blue ocean.

Wedgewood Terrace - the apartment of Pat and Peter Jones that was our "home" in Natal

Wedgewood Terrace

The next day we went to Durban. Our first stop was on the beach front. That was not half as inviting and glittering as I remember the Durban night life of a number of years ago but we spent an interesting few hours at Ocean World and the Dolphinarium. We were entertained on a display by these clever animals and had a closer look at some penguins and other sea animals as well. The aquarium with hundreds of fish species ranging from small colourful tropical fish to white sharks captured our attention for quite some time.

After visiting Sea World we went back to Umhlanga where I did some grocery shopping and Peter bought some postcards. I spotted and bought a postcard with an aerial view of Umhlanga showing the path to the beach from Wedgewood terrace. I also specifically went shopping at the La Lucia Mall to buy their freshly baked spicy, garlic, ham and cheese bread. Yummy!!

Zululand

The Natal North Coast was on the itinerary for the next day but after a brief stop at Umhloti, a beach North of Umhlanga, we turned away from the coast towards Zululand. Our route took us past Tongaat, the local sugar Industry's headquarters and on to Stanger. Stanger is also a sugar center but better known as the site where the Zulu king Shaka built his capital, Dakuza, where he was murdered by his half-brothers Dingaan and Mhangana in 1828. This area and the land north of the Tugela river, historically known as Zululand, is soaked in the history of these warrior people but apart from the spectacular scenery that lured us on over high mountains and down into lush green valleys we did not have enough time to learn more about the history of this enchanting land.

At Stanger a Hindu temple high on a hill stirred up our curiosity and we decided to investigate the possibility to have a closer look at it. Upon arrival at the temple we approached an Indian man and woman who invited us into the temple. The woman immediately knelt down to pray and the man- who may have been the priest - allowed me to take pictures inside the temple. We had to take off our shoes before entering the temple.

Today many of the Zulu people are resident in Johannesburg and other regions of the country but despite urbanization and the adoption of Western ways, much of the Zulu legacy remains intact. In traditional Zulu society the men were the hunters and stockmen and the women tilled the soil, brewed the beer, fashioned baskets and pots, cleaned and gathered firewood, fetched water and generally looked after the family's needs. In parts of Zululand the chores of the women remain the same today and the houses are still dome shaped, finely thatched dwellings built around a cattle kraal - a sacred place into which only the daughters of the family were allowed. Cattle are still prized for the wealth they represent and their mystical significance rather than for sustenance. Meat is regarded as a delicacy to be eaten only at special occasions that merited slaughter and celebration.

The Zulu religion of the forefathers has four main cornerstones. First there is the belief in a Supreme Being who is called Nkulunkulu, the Great-Great One who is the creator of all things but infinitely remote from humankind. Lesser deities are Nomkhubulwana (Daughter of Heaven), the representative of fertility and abundance and Inkozi Phezulu, the paramount chief. Second there are the more approachable ancestors who provide the link between the living and the dead and are responsible for the day-to-day welfare of the people and are therefore respected and placated. Then there is the animistic element which endows inanimate objects and features such as trees rivers and boulders with spiritual content. The fourth ingredient is the spirit medium and diviner, the sangoma, who has direct access to the ancestors, and who will predict the future, interpret the nature of the present and heal the body and (more often) the mind. In the remote areas of Zululand visible expressions of Zulu culture are evident everywhere. The vistas over the hills and from the mountains are spectacular and in most of the mountain areas towards Greytown the roads lead through blue gum or pine forests and plantations.

The Lady le Cheur guesthouse where we had lunch inGreytown

Durban was named after a Cape Colonial governor Sir Benjamin D'Urban. Since then the city expanded rapidly and today it is reputed to be the world's fastest growing conurbation, its numbers expanding more quickly than those of Calcutta and Mexico City. The greater majority of its citizens are Africans of Zulu origin but Durban is also home to a large population of Indians, many descended from the indentured labourers brought in during the 1860?o work on the great sugar cane plantations. Each of these labourers was initially bound by a three year contract, followed by another five years as a "free" worker after which they could choose between repatriation or permanent residence and a small patch of Crown land. Most choose the latter and were joined by thousands of their compatriots who were British subjects and could travel more or less feely within the Empire.

Mahatma Ghandi arrived in 1893 when the British Government was busy introducing laws that threatened Natal's Indian society and he remained to lead the political struggle. Ghandi became a key figure in the founding of the Natal Indian Congress in 1894. He continued his protest policy and the passive resistance movement in South Africa. After a lot of political unrest general Jan Smuts, the then prime minister of South Africa reached an agreement with Ghandi that produced the Indian Relief Act after which Ghandi returned to India. Today about half the country's Indian population live in the wider Durban area.

Beautiful Unhlanga beach early in the morning

Umhlanga Beach near Durban

We stayed in Wegdewood Terrace the apartment of my friends Pat and Peter Jones. The beach is only one block away from the apartment. Arriving in Umhlanga after having lunch with Patsi and Joe in Kloof we quickly unpacked and went for the first of many walks on this beautiful beach. Later on we also braved the waves and Peter discovered that one has to be rather steady on your feet for this adventure. The breakers are huge, the current rather strong and the water almost luke-warm.

Hindu temple at Stanger, KwaZulu, Natal

Hindu Temple, Stanger

The sea air was lovely and we indulged in an afternoon nap before going to a restaurant for a mutual belated birthday celebration that we promised ourselves before Peter even arrived in South Africa. We feasted on a seafood platter for two and washed it down with Peter's favourite Windhoek Lager. A most pleasant and memorable evening.

A hindu women praying in the Temple at Stanger

Interior of the Hindu Temple

A gorgeous view of the distant hills and valleys of Zululand

Hills & Valleys of Zululand

Peter having fun with a Zulu boy

Peter sharing his binoculars with a Zulu boy


We had lunch at the Lady Lecheur guest house at Greytown after visiting the local museum. The museum hosted numerous old implements, Zulu artifacts, displays of traditional Zulu beadwork and other crafts and some stuff from the Anglo BoerWar and the battle fields. To me it was interesting to learn that "Sarie Marais" of the Afrikaans folk song was in fact a woman that lived near Greytown and who is buried nearby. I always thought the women of this war-time song was a fictional character.

After these travels we arrived back late in Umhlanga but it was so interesting that we decided to go further north towards the Huhluwe-Umfolozi game Reserve and the great St Lucia Wetland the next day.

The Greytown Museum

Greytown Museum (above)
Lady Le Cheur Guesthouse (left)

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