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<body topmargin=0 leftmargin=0 marginheight=0 marginwidth=0> <table cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0 border=0><tr> <td valign="top" colspan=2 height=100 BGCOLOR="#CCCCFF" TEXT="#080000" bgproperties="fixed" background="93f00640egdysm.jpg"> <div> <FONT SIZE="6" COLOR="#000066" FACE="Westminster" ><I><B><U> The Alternative Fiero V8</U></B></I></FONT><FONT SIZE="5" COLOR="#000099" FACE="Arial" ><B> </B></FONT><B>    |     </B><A HREF="index.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE=" The Alternative Fiero V8"><U><B>home</B></U></A><B>   </B><B>   <IMG SRC="6ed37340.jpg" border=0 width="55" height="52" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></B></div> <div> </div> </td> </tr><tr> <td valign="top" width=150 BGCOLOR="#0000BF" TEXT="#F7F7FF" bgproperties="fixed" background="94199c00exvipq.jpg"> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id12.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="The New and Improved "><U><B>HOME PAGE</B></U></A></div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id13.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Intro"><U><B>Intro</B></U></A></div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id14.htm" 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TITLE="Comments"><U><B>Comments</B></U></A></div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id23.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Builders rides"><U><B>Builders rides</B></U></A></div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id211.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="_"><U><B>New Projects</B></U></A></div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id24.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Email"><U><B>Mail Box</B></U></A></div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <A HREF="mailto:bubbajoexx@sprint.ca" TARGET="_top" TITLE="mailto:bubbajoexx@sprint.ca"><U><B>E-mail <IMG SRC="05732420.gif" border=0 width="50" height="66" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></B></U></A></div> <bR> </td> <td valign="top" height=380 BGCOLOR="#FFFBF0" TEXT="#080000"> <div> <FONT SIZE="5" COLOR="#0000FF" FACE="Lucida Handwriting" ><I><B><U>Q&A PAGE</U></B></I><I><B> </B></I></FONT><FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#0000FF" FACE="Lucida Handwriting" ><I><B>This page brought to you by </B></I></FONT><I><B> </B></I><FONT SIZE="5" COLOR="#BF0000" FACE="Lucida Handwriting" ><I><B>Fast Jeff</B></I></FONT><I><B> </B></I><FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#0000FF" FACE="Lucida Handwriting" ><I><B> At </B></I></FONT><I><B> </B></I><FONT SIZE="5" COLOR="#BF0000" FACE="AdLib BT" ><A HREF="http://groups.msn.com/FieroCaddySwapGroup" TARGET="_top" TITLE="http://groups.msn.com/FieroCaddySwapGrou"><U><I><B>FieroCaddySwapGroup</B></I></U></A></FONT><FONT SIZE="5" COLOR="#0000FF" FACE="Lucida Handwriting" ><A HREF="id12.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="The New and Improved "><U><I><B><IMG SRC="1f954240.gif" border=0 width="84" height="36" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></B></I></U></A></FONT></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Caddy Fiero Swap Q & A Page:</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.   What transmissions fit the Caddy motor?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  Four types: 4 speed manuals, % speed manuals (Isuzu and Getrag), the TH125 3 speed automatic, and the Caddy's</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>      4 speed automatic.  Note that these trannies come from "normal " Fieros; no Quad Four or OHC trannies (which</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     have an entirely different bolt pattern).</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.  Which is the easiest to adapt?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  The Fiero 3 speed auto.  The Caddy flex plate bolts right up, and the basic bolt pattern is the same.  Some</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>      clearance for the starter must be made by cutting away a portion of the transmission bell housing (which is true with</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     the manual trannies as well).  Be sure to use the flexplate that came with your Caddy motor, for there for there's</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     a mix of internally/externally balanced flexplates out there.  (All 4.9s have internally balanced flywheels.)</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.  Isn't that little 3 speed auto too weak to hold the Caddy's torque?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  Actually, it has a higher torque rating than the Getrag 5 speed.  Rebuilt and equipped with a shift kit it is</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>      a solid unit.  Gearing-obtained by altering the chain drive and differential gearing ratios-can produce final drive</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     ratios from 2.53:1 through 3.73:1.  (Stock Fieros usually have 3.06:1 or 3.33:1 final drive ratios.)</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.  Why not just use the Caddy AOD automatic?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  Many have.  This swap requires different mounts and messing with the axles.  (Need help here!)  Some</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>       of these units are computer controlled; others are not, so be careful.  (See ECM difficulties.)</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.   How about using a manual trans?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.   The bell housing needs to be clearanced for the starter, and a custom flywheel obtained.  Some have </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>       welded the holes shut and re-drilled late V-6 flywheels for the Caddy crankshaft bolt pattern.  A safer</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>       solution would be to use a new, undrilled V-6 flywheel and have it drilled for the Caddy crank.  (Only the</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>      4.9 motors have internally balanced flywheels, so if you use an earlier Caddy motor you will have to get your</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>      flywheel UNbalanced to match.)  Finally, be aware that the final gearing on all Fiero manual transmissions  </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     is fairly low.  The Caddy motor, with its bags of low end grunt, is best served by the higher gearing available</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     only with the automatics.    </B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.  Will the clutch hold on to the Caddy's torque?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  The small diameter of the Caddy flywheel area necessitates a small clutch and pressure plate.  (Need help</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>      here!)  Probably the best choice here would be a Centerforce pressure plate.  It uses centrifugal weights to </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     increase the spring force as the rpms rise.  V8 Archie recommends this setup, and his S B Chevy conversions</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     make far more torque than a 4.9 Caddy.</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.  Which Caddy motors are recommended?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  Avoid the 4.1 liter motors like a plague!  They are powerless and, unless it's a later motor, not very reliable.</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     (It took Cadillac several years to get this radical, die cast motor successful.  The later 4.5 liter motors, and</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     all 4.9s, are well developed and reliable.)  The 4.5s are not as strong running as a 4.9.  (Exception: Late</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     production 4.5 motors-identified by PFI injection and black valve covers, are in essence a 4.9 motor with a </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>    short strike.  This is a great engine!)  Also available is the rare Allante motor with its long, tuned intakes (that </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>    are reportedly good for another 20 horsepower).  It's a keeper!</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.  How do I tell a 4.5 from a 4.9?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  The engine size is cast into the block on the lower left side.  Since this may not be evident (with the motor</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     in the car and/or filthy), the best identifier is the emissions sticker on the donor car.  That said, 4.5s (and</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     the lamentable 4.1s) have straight valve covers (on the inside edge).  All 4.9's  have scalloped covers</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     that blend around the port injectors.  One exception is the late 4.5 PFI motor which is virtually a 4.9 with</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     a short stroke.</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.  Which Caddy motors have the best performing heads?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  The 4.9s (and similar PFI 4.5s).  These heads have 1/4 inch larger intake and exhaust valves - a huge</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     increase!  The 4.9 heads can be used on a 4.5 motor, and with either 4.9 or 4.5 intake and valve covers.</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     A 4.5 intake has differently shaped (and smaller) pods.  They will still work, but maximum performance</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     when used with 4.9 heads will require a bit of porting.</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.  What compression ratio does a 4.9 have?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  The 1985 version of the 4.5 motor had 8.5:1; later motors, and all 4.9s, have 9.0:1.  It will run on regular</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     fuel (correct?  Need help here!).</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.  I've heard these motors bearing knock like crazy?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  All aluminum block motors are noisy.  Early 4.x Caddy motors were especially knocky, so Caddy</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     tightened up the clearance on the front and rear mains.  But that was to satisfy customer complaints,</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     not to keep the motors together.</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.  How about burning oil?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  The ultra hard wet liners in these engines can go at least 150,000 miles without a trace of a ridge at the</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     top.  (I challenge anyone to fine a ridge at the top of a Caddy liner!)  So, if you are rebuilding a 4.x motor, </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     just hone her out and re-ring.  The rings will seat beautifully, and the motor will be tight as new.</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>     A word of warning:  If the junkyard motor you are contemplating MAY have gotten water inside, then forget </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     it!  the liners rust like crazy, virtually overnight, and the pits form will cause massive oil burning.  </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     (Overboring the liner by.020 inches - for the largest pistons available - will not clean up a pitted liner.)  </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     Find yourself a motor that's not a "submarine" and go with it instead.  Trust me on this!  (Fastjeff)  </B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.  What do I use to clean the motor prior installation?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  A power washer with detergent will remove most of the crud, but deep cleaning requires a good solvent.</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     Castrol makes a good, water soluble, spray on cleaner that works fairly well - spray it on liberally, let is sit </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     overnight, then hose it off.  The best cleaner for aluminum is carburetor cleaner.  NAPA and others sell it </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     in gallon cans.  Brush it on and let is sit overnight before hosing off (like the Castrol product).</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.  How about rebuilding one of these things; I've heard horror stories on how difficult it can be?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  It is different, for the wet liners can move out of position when the heads are removed.  (If the liners are </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     corroded in place, do not disturb them!)  Either way, make up a flat washer and bolt deal to hold the liners </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     firmly in place as you hone and assemble the lower end.  If the liners moved, then they must ALL be </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     removed.  Mark the location and orientation of the liners on the outside with a pencil grinder (they're too </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     hard to stamp) and put them exactly back where they came from.  Clean the block and parts thoroughly, </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     then reassemble the liners into the block with new O-rings and lots of silicone.  Clamp the liners in place </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     with the heads (using old head gaskets) until the silicone sets.  (And when it does, the liners are there to </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     stay.  Forever.)  Finally, a rebuilt caddy motor should always be pressure tested to be sure the liners are not </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     leaking.</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.  Yikes!  Any more surprises I should know about?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  Well, the head bolts are torqued in an odd patter, where three of the ten bolts are torqued more than the rest.  </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     The female threads are in the aluminum casting, so these threads need to be cleaned thoroughly and coated </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     with a quality anti-seize compound.  And be careful if you clean the threads with a tap, for they are not the </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     usual 12 mm pitch.</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.  How about motor mounts?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  There's several ways to go here: use the stock Caddy mounts (on the sides of the block) with custom </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     brackets, or use a central mounting arrangement (similar to the Fiero setup) with a dog bone.  (A1970s GM  </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>    Turbo 400 rear transmission mount makes a fine single front mount.)  Both arrangements require custom </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>    made parts (Bubba Joe sells the dual mount setup).  In either case, the builder needs to make certain the </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>    engine/trans is level with the cradle and parallel to the axle centerline.  Use a long carpenter's level to be sure.</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.  Does the cradle have to come out to perform this swap?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  Don't even think of doing this swap without dropping the cradle!  With the cradle out of the car the engine, </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     the mounts and exhaust system can be rigged up with surprising ease.  Each component of the drive train is </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     easily accessible, which is far from true when the cradle is back in the car.</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.  Can I service the Caddy motor in the car?  It looks as if it would be impossibly tight?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  Changing plugs is a pain, yet the plugs on both banks are accessible with ordinary tools - no trick sockets </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     and extensions required.  The water pump is tough to change in the car (though it's not more difficult than </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     the V-6), so be sure it's right.  Also, if your engine came from a car that took a front end hit, be sure to fill </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     and pressurize the block with water and check carefully for leaks before installing the motor.  It doesn't take </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     much of a hit for the plate behind the water pump to leak like a sieve,  and it's a dog to replace in the car.</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.  Will the battery need to be relocated?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  No, but some have done it to make life easier (and to improve the front/rear weight bias).</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.  Will I need stiffer rear springs with Caddy V-8?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  No, for a Caddy V-8 weighs virtually the same as the cast-iron 4 banger or V-6!  This is a remarkable </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     achievement in motor design, one that has culminated in the awesome Northstar (a direct offshoot of the </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     4.x motor series, officially acknowledged as one of the ten best engines in existence).</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.  How about the engine control system?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  First, decide what type of fuel system you want to use:  TBI (which can be adapted to 4.9s as well), PFI </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>    (port injection), a carburetor (2 or 4 Barrel), or some aftermarket fuel system (like a Holley Pro-Jection unit). </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>    With the TBI or PFI system, the new ECM is installed in the console area (where the stock Fiero unit lives) </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>    and wired through the firewall to the Caddy motor using portions of the donor car's wiring harness.</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.  Sounds kinda complicated.  What's the simplest way to go?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  A carburetor.  Your fuel pressure must be reduced to about 5 psi with a fuel pressure regulator or the carb </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     will flood like crazy.  The 4 banger fuel pump puts out approx. 13 psi, which most pressure regulators can </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>    handle.  The V-6, however, puts out close to 50 psi-more than most can handle.  Instead of purchasing an </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>    expensive, high-pressure regulator, build a simple by-pass "Tee" to reduce the fuel pressure before the </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>   regulator.  (this setup is recommended in any case to aid cooling of the fuel pump.)  Finally, with a carb setup, </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>   a centrifugal distributor needs to be made up from early Olds/Pontiac distributor parts.  (This replaces the </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>   ECM controlled distributor.)  Hooking up this distributor is a breeze: simply reuse the Fiero's soil wires for </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>   "hot" and "tach" and you're ready to go.</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.  But . . .doesn't the Fiero's ECM run the distributor?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  True, but the poser (and tach signal) to this dumb distributor" is all you need to hook up.  While we're on </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     this subject, the stock ECM runs very few operations in a Fiero.  For example, the fans, cruise control, </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     speedo, oil pressure and voltmeter (both gages and lights) are all run totally independent of the Fiero's </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>    ECM.  (Signals go to the ECM for it to "know" what's going on. but it runs very little.)</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.  So, if I hook up this " dumb distributor", and use a carb, the  ECM can be tossed out?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  Yes, but you must sill run a wire from the Fiero oil pressure switch to keep the fuel pump relay engaged.  </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     And you'll have to jumper the fuel pump relay to initially fill your carburetor bowl, for the fuel pump will </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     not run until the oil pressure gage sees oil pressure.</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q. How do I do this?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  The easiest way is to jump the two vertical terminals (there are three terminals) in the switch connector.  </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     Do it right, and you"ll hear the fuel pump running (if your CD isn't blasting).</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q. Why can't I simply rely on the oil pressure switch?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  The switch is a temporary, get-you-home deal should the fuel pump relay burn out.  Don't use this flimsy </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     oil pressure switch full time or you'll eventually get stranded somewhere.  It's $45 part, incidentally.</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.  Is the stock Fiero fuel pump big enough to supply the Caddy?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  Yes, unless you bypass way too much fuel back to the tank.</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q. Which carburetor works best?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  The easiest, high performance setup is a Holley 500 cfm 2 barrel.  (A Mr. Gasket 2 barrel - to - 2 barrel </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     adapter - $25 - can be bolted to the intake by merely drilling and tapping 4 holes.  This Holley then bolts to </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     an adapter.)   Another alternative is the lager-sized Rochester two barrel _vs. a similar looking but much </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     smaller unit) found on '70s and later GM cars.  It flows about 320 cfm and is dirt cheap to buy.  A custom </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     made adapter is necessary to bolt it up, however.  A third alternative is a 4 barrel.  This installation requires </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     extensive machine work to adapter it to the Caddy intake.  Also, the length of the carb tends to interfere </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     with the alternator and other things on the relatively tiny Caddy intake.</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.  My car has to pass emissions testing, so what's my next choice?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  EFI.  The stock Caddy Ecm is and oddball monster that few have been able to tame.  Its non-GM-like </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     programming is not easily adapted, and chip hackers will be of no help.  By contrast, a common Chevy #7747 </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>    ECM can be adapted and "hacked" by anyone familiar with such efforts.  Unfortunately,  Chevy uses a different </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>    idle control system from Cadillac (the Familiar IAC instead of Caddy's motor driven deal).  That means a Chevy </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>   TBI (or air throttle with MPFI) must be used (or some other arrangements made, like an external IAC system).  </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>   Finally, either TBI or a port injected Chevy ECM can be used.</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>Q.  And that's all I have to do; just use the Chevy stuff and all is well?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  Not really, for the fuel maps are not the same.  Some tuning (via chip alteration) is necessary to convert the Chevy </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     functions to the smaller and different Caddy motor.  (Need HELP here, Rockcrawl!)</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.  How about the radiator?  Won't it be too small for a V-6?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  The V-6 radiator, or the 4 banger with AC radiator, is okay, and even with A/C.  (Toss out the tine, non-AC,,4 banger</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     radiator.)  The Caddy motor uses an oil cooler that aids in cooling the engine.  Most people mount the cooler,</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     which is essential, under an air grille.</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.  Can I retain my A/C?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  Yes, but the pulley needs to be changed to a 7 groove type (and the lines lengthened??? Need help here)</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.  Any other belt drive changes needed?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  The power steering unit is tossed out, along with the belt tensioner.  To "turn the corner" another pulley is required: </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     a NAPA 7 groove pulley  (part #38008).  It can be bolted to the water pump housing with a 10 mm bolt and shimmed </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     to align the belt correctly.  (This slick setup clears the rear hood hinge of the Fiero without cutting.)  A NAPA </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     # 25-060810 belt is a good start in determining the right length belt, but a different length may be required for your setup.</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.  If I not using that tensioner, then how do I tension belt?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  Most people pivot the alternator about the left side bolt and make up a sliding tensioner for the other side.  Others </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     adapt the 4 banger alternator mount and eliminate the Caddy mount completely (with a sliding tensioner on the right side).</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.  Will the stock alternator, mounted on the stock bracket, clear the V-6 hood?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  Yes, if your motor is installed level in the cradle.  At least 1 inch of clearance will be available.</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.  How about the exhaust system?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  Several options here, all of which require welding.  Most people make up a custom cross over pipe that ties manifolds </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     together (in the rear), then goes to the stock Fiero exhaust location.  (If you are using EFI, an O2 sensor bung must be </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     added at the junction.)  The rest of the exhaust system can be stock Fiero, but a larger diameter (2 1/2 inch) is preferred.  </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>    A good shop can bend up a system that's similar to the stock system, but with larger catalytic converter, pipe and a free </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>    flowing muffler.  (Take your stock system to the muffler shop for them to copy.  Tell them to leave slip joints in several places </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>    for on-car adjustment.)  You'll have to fashion pipe holding devices yourself, using the brackets removed from the stock </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>    system, or custom exhaust brackets (available from J C Whitney and elsewhere).</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q. What if I want dual exhausts?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  That's tougher to do, but still possible.  The 89 Seville sent its left bank exhaust under the motor instead of crossing over to </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     the rear of the right manifold.  Combining this left side dumb manifold with a non-Seville right side manifold provides dual </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     outlets (with rear cross-overs blocked off).  Getting this nest of snakes out the back-two cats and two mufflers-may require </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     cutting out most of the trunk (though it CAN be done without depleting the Fiero's already meager trunk capacity).  A good trick</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>    is to use the steel (vs. cast iron)exhaust manifolds on 4.5 motors.  Thses can be cut and welded to point the outlet in a more </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>    friendly direction.</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.  How about the throttle linkage?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  One has to use ingenuity to adapt the various throttle, crise control and (if used) throttle valve cables.  On the later motors, </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     Caddy had to use something oddball, so be prepared for some heavy duty bodging.</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.  What is the easiest way to rig up a coolant outlet?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  Weld the Fiero's thermo outlet to the Caddy outlet, or buy a Moroso inline radiator filler.  (With the Moroso unit, be sure to </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     use a radiator cap with higher pressure than the one in front!  And drill and 1/8 inch hole in your thermostat to allow the air </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     to get out.)  It's a very good idea to use a safety cap in front-the kind with the lever on top.  Not only is this far easier to open, </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     and keeps you from getting burnt, it allows easy "burping" of the cooling system.</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.  I've heard horror stories on how hard it is to put coolant in a Fiero.  Got any pointers?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  A piece of cake if you know the trick-and the Caddy installation is no different.  With the Fiero's thermo housing setup, remove </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     the thermostat and fill the system.  (Jacking the back of the car WAY up helps.)  Fill the system to the top while opening the front </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     safety cap until coolant flows to the overflow tank.  Then start the engine, and keep filling as the level drops.  When it won't take </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     any more coolant, put the cap on (with the thermo still out).  Run the engine 'til the left front radiator hose gets warm-that means </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     coolant is circulating-then shut her off.  Carefully remove the rear cap (here's where the front safety cap is a blessing!), fill to the </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     top, add the thermo, and your done.  With the Moroso setup, you do basically the same thing except that you have to patiently wait </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     for trapped air to exit via that 1/8 inch hole you drilled in the thermostat.  (You DID remember to drill that hole, right?)</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.  How about hoses; what hoses can be used for the swap?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  The 4 cylinder (outlet) hose can be massaged to work.  A NAPA # 7865 hose with a section of pipe installed in its middle (ie; cut </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     the hose in half), works well for the inlet.  You'll have to search for a molded heater hose with a 90 degree bend-a friendly auto store</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     is a plus here.  The heater hose outlet in the thermostat housing-which is an oddball, oversized mess-can be tapped for a 1/2 pipe </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     thread.  This allows a conventional heater hose fitting to be screwed in, one with a normal sized heater hose.</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>Q.  My Fiero has the two speed rad. fan.  Where will I put all of the Fiero temperature sensors I need to run the fan, Plus my ECM?</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>A.  The Caddy thermo housing can be drilled and tapped (3/8 pipe thread) for up to 4 temperature sensors.  Find a good spot  </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     (that will not interfere with valve covers, etc.,) for the sensor, then drill and tap the housing.  Be sure to locate a spot that's in a </B></I></div> <div> <I><B>     flat area or you'll have problems.</B></I></div> </td> </tr></table></body>