|
|
How To
do a Clutch
*This how-to was taken from our Chilton’s Repair Manual , Honda Service manual , Haynes Manual.. I recommend picking up one of these to get a general idea of how things work and how to fix them yourself.*
People who where a big help in writing this >
87accordlxi ( info from the chilton's manual )
Paul Aerdoeck86 ( Pictures taken from the service manual )
Site , Cloud892dr , GreenMachine , 89LXi4dr ( Personal experience tips )
ACCORD EX ( myself who gathered information from all the resources )
READ CAREFULLY BEFORE STARTING ( any questions ask @ 3geez.com )
This How to is not responsible for any damage caused by following it , you do this on your own risk .
Approx. Time : 4 > 5 days ( 4 hours each day ) ( for non experienced people )
TOOLS AND PARTS NEEDED :
PARTS >
1.new shift rod pin ( recommended )
2 .New spring washer and bolt for the release arm spring ( recommended )
3. C.V spring clips ( depending on condition )
4. A Clutch Kit ( pressure plate , disc )
5. release bearing ( depending on condition )
6. 2.6 Liters Transmission oil
TOOLS >
1. 8mm > 22 mm sockets and wrenches + 32mm socket with a breaker bar for the axle spindle nut .
2. 2 jack stands , and another 2 to support the tranny and the engine .
3. pry bar
4. clutch alignment tool ( if it didn't come with the clutch kit )
5. a small handy pump or a funnel with a hose to pump in new tranny oil .
Part
1: Manual Transaxle Removal
- Disconnect the battery ground cable at the battery and the transmission case. Unlock the steering column; place the transmission in neutral
- Disconnect the following cables and wires:
Clutch cable at the release arm.
Back-up light switch wires.
TCS (Transmission Controlled Spark) switch wires
Black/white wire from the starter solenoid.
Live Pic ( starter )
- Release the engine sub wiring harness from the clamp at the clutch housing. Remove the upper two transaxle mounting bolts.
- Raise the front of the car and support it with safety stands.
Live Pic ( suggested jacking points ) use spot 3 to raise the vehicle and spots 1 & 2 for the jack stands ! ( leave the jack in place ( spot 3 )
NOTE: You can raise the vehicle from spot 3 and place both jack stands behind the front wheels but make sure these places are not rusted out .
Live Pic ( Jacking points behind the front wheels )
- Drain the transmission.
NOTE: Before draining the transmission be sure that you are able to loosen the filling bolt so you won't get stuck at the end .
- Remove the front wheels. Place a suitable transaxle jack into position under the transaxle.
- Disconnect the speedometer cable.
Method 1: Remove both 10 mm bolts holding the whole holder down use method 2 if they are so hard to loose
Method 2: Remove both hoses 1 & 2 in the pic below ( PS fluid may come out of them so be have a bottle near you to not make a mess ) then pull up the boot and disconnect the speedometer cable
- Disconnect the shift lever torque rod from the clutch housing.
- Remove the bolt from the shift rod clevis.
Live Pic ( Shift Rod and Torque Rod ) (1. Torque rod ) ( 2. shift rod )
- Disconnect the tie rod ball joints and remove them using a suitable ball joint remover.
- Remove the lower arm ball joint bolt from the right side lower control arm, then using a puller to disconnect the ball joint from the knuckle. Remove the damper fork bolt.
NOTE : Instead if removing the damper fork bolt ( which is usually hard to remove and tend to break ) you can remove the spindle ( Axle 32mm nut ) instead and remove the whole Axle shaft .if you do this method be sure to loose the spindle nut while the car is on ground , it could take a breaker bar to loosen this nut .
- Turn each steering knuckle to its most outboard position. Using a suitable tool, pry the right side CV-joint out approximately ½”, then pull the sub axle out of the transaxle housing. Repeat this procedure for the opposite side. Remove the right side radius rod ( if necessary )
.
- Support the engine from beneath ( oil pan ) with a jack stand and a peace of wood between the jack and the pan in order not to damage the pan .
- Support the transaxle from beneath using a jack and a piece of wood too .
Live Pic ( support points )
- Remove the damper bracket from the transaxle. Remove the clutch housing bolts from the transaxle mount.
Live Pic ( Damper bracket )
- Remove the clutch housing bolts from the rear transaxle mounting bracket. Remove the clutch cover.
- Remove the starter mounting bolts and remove the starter assembly through the chassis.
Live Pic ( starter )
- Remove the transaxle mounting bolt.
- Pull the transaxle away from the engine block to clear the two 14mm dowel pins and lower the transaxle jack.
Part
2: Clutch Driven Disk and Pressure Plate Replacement
ILLUSTRATION OF CLUTCH COMPONENTS
CLUTCH DISC
CAUTION: The clutch
driven disc contains asbestos, which has been determined to be a cancer causing
agent. Never clean clutch surfaces
with compressed air! Avoid inhaling
any dust from any clutch surface! When
cleaning clutch surfaces, use a commercially available brake cleaning fluid.
Hopefully you have already removed the manual transaxle (see above instructions).
- Using a large pry bar or other fabricated tool (see illustration), lock the flywheel ring gear. Remove the pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts, the pressure plate, and the clutch disc.
NOTE: Loosen the retaining bolts two turns at a time in a circular
pattern. Removing one bolt while
the rest are tight may warp the diaphragm spring.
- To separate the pressure plate from the diaphragm spring, remove the 4 retracting clips
- Remove the disc
- The flywheel can now be removed, if it needs repairing or replacing.
REASSEMBLY > ( DISC + PRESSURE PLATE )
Install the clutch disc & pressure plate by aligning the flywheel dowels with dowel holes in the pressure plate
Install the bolts finger tight .
insert the clutch alignment tool into the clutch disc hole .
Torque the bolts in criss cross pattern as shown ( two turns at a time)
Remove the clutch alignment tool !
REPLACING RELEASE ( THROW-OUT ) BEARING :
To remove the release, or throw-out, bearing, first straighten the locking tab and remove the 8mm bolt,
followed by the release shaft and release arm with the bearing attached.
NOTE: It is recommended that the release bearing be removed after the
release arm has been removed from the casing.
Trying to remove or install the bearing with the release arm in the case
will damage the retaining clip.
If a new release bearing is to be installed, separate the bearing from the holder, using a bearing drift.
check the release bearing for excessive play by spinning it by hand .
Align the release arm with the locating holes of the release bearing .
Install the release arm clip in the locating holes as shown
Install the release shaft and bearing
Align the release shaft and release arm , then install a new spring washer and bolt
Move the release bearing up and down to make sure the fork fits properly against the bearing and that the bearing slides freely .
NOTES :
Make sure that the flywheel and the end of the crankshaft are clean before assembling.
When installing the pressure plate, align the mark on the outer edge of the flywheel with the alignment mark on the pressure plate. Failure to align these marks will result in imbalance.
When tightening the pressure plate bolts, use a pilot shaft to center the friction disc; the pilot shaft can be bought at any large auto supply store or fabricated from a wooden dowel. After centering the disc, tighten the bolts two turns at a time, in a circular pattern to avoid warping the diaphragm spring.
When installing the release shaft, and arm, place a lock tab washer under the retaining bolt.
When installing the transaxle, make sure that the mainshaft is properly aligned with the disc spline and the alignment pins are in place, before tightening the case bolts.
TRANNY RASSEMBLY :
To reinstall the transaxle, reverse the removal procedure. Be sure to pay attention to the following points:
Tighten all mounting points and bolts.
Use a new shift rod pin.
After installing the driveshafts, attempt to move the inner joint housing in and out the differential housing. If it moves easily, the driveshaft end clips should be replaced.
Make sure that the control cables and wires are properly connected.
Be sure the transmission is refilled to the proper level.
